Uzbekistan

Day 6 May 18, 2023 Khiva Uzbekistan

We are to meet our guide in the lobby at 9 am. We all got there but he did not which is very unusual. He arrived about 20 minutes late because he had been ill. He was also quite wet because it is raining outside. Very unusual for this time of year. Several other groups are just hanging around. We all agree to wait about an hour to see if the weather is better. One other group returned saying too much rain.

We waited in the lobby because the room doesn’t have chairs. A light shower continued all that hour. We finally ventured out at 10:30. It was still sprinkling a little. We walked to the west gate or at least most of the way. Our guide flagged down a big golf cart for us to ride part of the way. That was nice since it was covered. We waited a few minutes just inside the entrance for our guide to get tickets. Small merchant stands are along the entrance.

We stopped at a big map of the fort. The area is a UNESCO site. This was built in the 1800s. Approximately 800 people live inside the fort today. The site has been very well maintained. It got its name because of the well here. The trade caravans could stop here to trade and water their animals. The royal family also lived here so some came to see them.

This area is well known for its wool and fur hats. Just across from the map was a stand selling these hats. Several of us tried them on but only one person bought one. They are really pretty and quite warm.

The road is made of flat square stone. That can’t be original because they are too smooth and uniform. Makes walking easier however. That is good with how many people are visiting. Lots of school children too. All different ages.

We visited a hotel which had been a school for pupils to learn about the Muslim religion. One of the rooms was open. These used to be the dormitory rooms for the pupils. They were very small and dark. No windows anywhere. Thank goodness for lights. The room did have a bathroom. The only place to sit was on the beds.

The roadways were very nice but every time we went in a building we had to go up several steps. Sometimes they were short and not many. Other times they were steep and many. Definitely no handicap access. Also not many rest rooms.

Lots of loud music was coming from the next building. Lots of people were coming and going too. Once we got inside we knew why. A group of girls dressed in various costumes were dancing. Some from the audience were joining them. Everyone was having a good time.

Across the courtyard was the royal palace. People could come here to settle disputes or be judged for crimes committed. Sometimes the second in command could settle things but other times it required an audience with the khan. People would exit that audience through one of three doors. If you left from the first door you were free to go. If you left from the second door you were whipped and fined. If you left from the third door you were executed. The ceramic tiles used to decorate that area were beautiful.

The dancers were all gathered for a photo shoot in the next room. Some of our group joined them. Lots of photos were being taken.

Next was a mausoleum where a famous wrestler is buried. Our guide told quite a story about this person. Some of the story seemed unbelievable. For instance he pulled a man and his horse to safety when the horse started to fall off a cliff. He also saved a bunch of people who were slaves to a king in India. Inside the mausoleum was beautiful so at least some of the story must have been true. Several women were praying in a side room. Whenever they left the side room or the main room they backed out.

We came to a stand selling the fresh bread. We got to eat some that was still warm. It is much better that way. This is the bread they flatten out and then stamp with a design and/or the shop logo before baking in a clay oven. The stand also sold a bread with tomato and spices. That was good also. A young American couple stopped too. He was 6’ 9” tall and played tennis not basketball. He was born in Portland Oregon and is studying economics and Russian.

Then we entered a room with 208 wooden pillars. Every pillar was carved differently. It has two sections for praying. One section for men and a separate one for women. One of the pillars had carvings with Indian gods and symbolism. Not all of the pillars have survived well. Some have been replaced and some have metal bands around them to hold the pillar together. The pillars are small on the bottom and sit on a stone. Somehow they are holding the roof up.

Next stop was a wood shop where they carve pillars, doors, book stands, pencil boxes and other boxes. The work is beautiful. The book stands have four, six or nine different configurations depending how they are cut. Each stand is cut out of one piece of wood. We bought a small one for $25.00. Later we found one for $15.00. We obviously had not properly shopped.

We came to a cemetery that had been used primarily during the Black Plaque. They figured out that the plaque could be spread by taking the bodies out of the fort. Therefore they started burials inside. So many deaths occurred that they had to build on top of one another. That still wasn’t enough so they built family tombs and just added bodies as they came along. The tombs were all out of brick. There were also similar ones on the outside of the wall.

Finally off to lunch. After the meal the wait staff brought local sparkling wine and a birthday cake for one of our group. We all sang Happy Birthday. The rest of our day is free time. Most of us opted to return to the hotel for a nap and then to possibly return for shopping. We returned to the hotel but opted to stay there. Other than Rob asked our guide where he got his hair cut. So a bit later they went out. When Rob returned he had been scalped for $5.00. Some things just get lost in translation. (Including Rob’s hair!)