Spoffords Travel

Day 7 May 3, 2026 Baku Azerbaijan to Tbilisi Georgia

Today we flew back to Georgia. We will overnight here as the flight to Germany leaves at 5:00 am. The BOLT service (An UBER wannabe) is scheduled for a 2:00 am pickup. We are starting off with a short night’s sleep in economy seats. Both the airport in Baku and the one in Tbilisi seem new and efficient. We had no big lines and no issues. Neither of them have big shopping areas so the walk to the gates isn’t miles long. We boarded and deplaned using buses out on the tarmac.

It’s cloudy and just a little misty. We are about a mile by how the crow flies from where we stayed before. That area is all city.

We won’t post again until we get home.

Day 6 May 2, 2026 Baku Azerbaijan

Today’s highlight was very special. We met Ida and her husband Mike (not their Azerbaijani names). Nam from Vietnam set us up. We agreed to meet at a very special restaurant inside a museum. The food was incredible and the conversation stimulating. After lunch we had a guided tour of the building. So much history on display here. Their original constitution was on display here. As it turns out Ida’s great grand father was one of the signers. Lots of individual rooms to have your meal or larger common areas. I have no idea how to spell or pronounce the foods we ate. Ida teaches law at one of the universities and working on her PHD. Mike is a civil prosecutor. They are both very passionate about their work and their country. They have two children who did not join us. They promised to visit us when the kids are a little older.

After touring the restaurant (museum) we returned to our room for tea and dessert. We had two kinds of tea, two kinds of jam, nuts and pastries. They could be a meal all by themselves. They have many sweets but once again not as sweet as in the states. (And that is a good thing.

We eventually had to return to the hotel to pack and prepare to leave early in the morning. We have learned so much about this part of the world. Even though Azerbaijan is sandwiched between Ukraine and Iran we have felt very safe. The country is doing everything it can to remain civil with all its neighbors and religions. Not an easy thing to do.

Some thoughts about the country.

We felt very safe here. The military is not standing on the corners with machine guns. The city and countryside are clean. Tourism was very low. Reports here say as much as 40% of hotel reservations have been cancelled. If you decide to come here, be prepared for wind. The title of Windy City is well deserved. The three major religions of Christianity, Islam and Judaism. coexist without trouble. Perhaps this is because the population is not practicing as much as in some countries. They all share each others religious holidays so they get more time off work.

Day 5 May 1, 2026 Baku Azerbaijan

Today’s big adventure was trying to find a donor cafe. We had seen one across the street from one of the banks. Of course there are a lot of banks in a city this size. Also we drove in and around so many places we easily got confused. Rob’s idea was to go to the grocery store and find someone with enough English to direct us to a place. While he did that Connie explored a little more of the store. What a lot of candy! They must all have big sweet teeth. The dentists must make a good living. Well Rob’s efforts worked. One is not too far away. Now if we can only follow the directions in Google Maps.

We had only gone about two blocks when the scenery looked familiar. Sure enough just half a block away was the donor cafe we had seen a few days ago. No one in the little cafe spoke English but we managed to order two beef donors and an orange soda. Very tasty. They run a small cafeteria like place. Several dishes were in a display bar. People came in and chose which one(s) they wanted. Then someone heated it up in a microwave. The locals could consume a plate full in short order. About the time we were ready to leave something happened with a customer and tempers flew. Sure would like to know the story. The food was delicious. Rob tipped the cook which brought a big smile.

Connie spent part of the day getting caught up on the blog and Facebook. Rob got boarding passes and a room in Tbilisi. We fly back to Georgia day after tomorrow and the day after that head for home.

This provides an opportunity to discuss a few things we have missed. First of all pomegranate is very popular in this part of the world. We saw more of them in Armenia but it is one of the country symbols for Azerbaijan.

This hotel has an unusual elevator system. First of all there are three elevators: A, B, and C. An electronic tablet type device sits between the elevators. The tablet has all the floors displayed. You tap the number of the floor you want to go to. Then the system tells you which elevator to get in. Once in the elevator Rob tells you to turn around and look out the glass. There are no floor buttons in the elevators.

Cherry juice is very common in all three countries. Orange and apple are as well. We have enjoyed the cherry juice because it is local. They also have cherry jam but it doesn’t have a strong cherry flavor.

The breakfast buffet here has what is labeled scrambled eggs. It’s more like scrambled egg soup. The eggs are so runny. We both passed on those. The fresh made omelets on the other hand are very good.

Cats are everywhere. They are calm and love to be petted. We have not petted them but have seen many locals do so. Now that we know what to look for we have seen quite a few cat houses providing shelter for the cats. Most have small dishes in front for food and/or water. Dogs on the other hand seem to be missing. The “city” cats did not have ear tags like the “city” dogs did in Armenia and Georgia.

At the Fire Temple we were shown a picture of the Faraavahar, one of the most prominent symbols of Zoroastrianism. Our guide told us about it but that seemed to go in one ear and out the other. Seems he said something about one wing being the good angel and the other wing the bad angel. Since we couldn’t really remember we asked Google. Here is the answer:

It represents a guardian spirit, known as a fravashi, symbolizing the human soul’s spiritual journey. 

The figure is surrounded by a ring, not a hula hoop, which represents the eternity of the soul. 

The wings are divided into three feathers, symbolizing the Zoroastrian principles of good thoughts, good words, and good deeds. 

This emblem is a significant cultural icon of ancient Persian heritage. 

A little about their education. Nine years of schooling is mandatory. If you want to learn a trade you go do so after the nine years. If you want to attend a university you must continue your schooling for two more years. Most degrees require four years except medical degrees which require more. Two sessions occur each day Monday through Friday. The first session goes from 8:00 am to 1:00 pm. Those kids go home and the next group goes from 2:00 to 7:00. This is true for universities as well. Baku has about 20 universities. The schools don’t have big sport fields only big buildings.

The city seems quite clean except for the leaves that are flying around in the wind. Today was only about a 10 mph breeze. Nice and calm.

The city has at least two large stadiums that have been used for Olympic and European championships.

Across the street from the donor cafe was the entrance to a small pub. The pictures outside looked like they might serve food as well as beer. Google says some of the pubs do serve snack type food such as chicken neck, chicken heart, chicken gizzard, string cheese, peas and things I have no idea what.

Day 4 April 30, 2026 Baku Azerbaijan

We are going further from the city today. A huge shopping mall is on the outskirts of town. Anything and everything can be purchased here. We had seen other malls around the city but this one surpassed those all together. Adjacent to that was a large industrial area. A newer neighborhood for the wealthy is under construction. The houses are so large they look like churches or hotels. A big resort was planned but for whatever reason has stopped.

We drove for nearly an hour to get to the petroglyphs. The Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape is a historic site in Azerbaijan, comprising a large collection of petroglyphs that reflect the flora, fauna, hunting practices, social structures, and cultural expressions of human societies from prehistoric to medieval times. These engravings provide detailed depictions of figures, such as lance-bearers and ritualistic dance scenes, as well as various animal species, bullfighting events, camel caravans, and celestial symbols such as the sun and other stars. Estimated to date back approximately 5,000 to 20,000 years, the rock art offers insight into the spiritual life and daily activities of early human populations in the region. It is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We started in the museum portion. This was very well done with lots of information. The only problem was it was so dark it was difficult to read. The signage had both local and English. One automated display could be seen to depict how the Caspian Sea had changed over the centuries. We were amazed how often the sea had risen and receded. At one time the entire area was under water. There were actually tour buses and vans here. A large group from South Korea walked very swiftly through the museum. They could not possibly have seen anything let alone study it.

We drove further up the mountain to another parking lot. Even more buses and vans. A rock musical instrument was just out of the parking lot. A log looking thing that when hit with a stone made beautiful sounds. Petroglyphs dating back approximately 5,000 to 8,000 years, include depictions of longships that closely resemble Viking ships. The presence of these ship depictions among the rock carvings suggests possible cultural connections or maritime interactions between the inhabitants of the region and those of the Mediterranean and other European regions.

The landscape is strewn with large rocks. The positions would indicate movement caused by earthquakes. The petroglyphs are carved into the rock. Sometimes looking at them with the phone is better. Paths around the area are made from rock and are relatively smooth. Lots of groups including school age kids.

Now it is off to the mud pots. The terrain between is semi arid. The plant life is green but will soon turn brown with the heat. We saw one large band of sheep on the way. Lots of different colors. They will be heading to higher ground for the summer. No fences anywhere.

We pass the largest mud volcano in the world. It looks much like any other mountain. About half of the world’s mud volcanos are in Azerbaijan. Many are under the Caspian Sea. Mud volcanos are usually found near large concentrations of oil. The gas brings up materials from deep in the earth. The mud is very dark gray brown. Possibly due to oil. The mud bubbles and spills over the top forming the mountain. They can also erupt sending flames high in the sky. This spot has some but not lots. They are in some ways similar to Yellowstone and some ways not. Both bubble or burp but these are caused more by natural gas rather than geothermal water.

A small museum nearby contains skeletons of many different animals. They had all existed here at one time or another. We learned earlier that lions and leopards had once lived here. There were no skeletons of human beings. On the walk around the pots there were warning signs of scorpions and snakes. Aparently waiting to get you if you got off the boardwalk.

On the way back we past the site of the first oil well and the main mosque of the city. Interestingly they do not have calls to prayer. Also drove down a large street where a synagogue was on each side of the street. Overall there is quite a mix of religions present and they all get along quite well, What a great idea.

Day 3 April 29, 2026 Baku Azerbaijan

We have the guide and driver again today. The journey will take us to the Burning Mountain. This is a protected area so their is a fee. As usual foreign visitors pay significantly more than nationals. The site has a small section of flames coming from a thin layer of sandstone. The flames can reach as high as 9 feet. The fuel is natural gas and has been burning for at least 4,000 years. We did take time to purchase a t-shirt.

The next stop was the Fire Temple. The temple was home to the Zoroastrians. An Indian religion with belief in fire, water, air and earth. Inscriptions in several dialects are found throughout the complex indicating it was probably used for different purposes over the centuries. It was located on one of the silk roads and had been used as caravan lodging as well. The main alter has a fire burning in the middle and at some time flames came from the upper four corners of the structure. The temple is built much like a fort with walls all around. Lots of rooms surround the main altar. At one time more of the fires were around the area. A group of young women were visiting the site. They wanted to have a picture with us included. They were having a wonderful time. We went inside some of the rooms. They were surprisingly warm even with no heat. The walls are made of limestone which stays warm in cold times and cool in hot times. The museum had life size statues depicting some of what life would have been like. The point was made that several religions exist here and yet they all get along. Perhaps because the Russians were more successful at destroying religion than thought. Even though there are churches, synagogues, and mosques I don’t think religion plays as large a role here as in Armenia.

We drove to a castle that is one of the few ones remaining. We could only look from the outside as restoration work is continuing on the inside. This is the Ramana Castle and Tower. It was built in either the 12th or 14th centuries. Scholars seem to disagree. The tower would most likely have been used as a warning system to other castles along the coast. If an enemy approached a bonfire would be lit on top of the tower to warn the next castle. During the day smoke might be used in order to be more visible.

A view point was next to the castle. Great views back to the city. Two young men were practicing kicking a ball back and forth similar to soccer.

Back in the city we stopped at the Cultural Center. This is a large ripple shaped building. Not sure what is inside but outside were some interesting sculptures of animals dressed as humans doing human type things. Someone must have been on some kind of drugs. Also visible from here is the Ritz Carlton Hotel which used to be Trump Tower 1.

We returned to the hotel about 1:00 pm. Not wanting to eat lunch in the hotel we went to the small grocery store at the end of the block. There are always interesting things here. Coke, Pepsi and Fanta are always there along with other unknown to us flavors. The energy drinks are here too. Water comes in bottles anywhere between the standard 16.2 ml up to about 5 gallons. Some of the water containers look like weights. The potato chips are in different flavors but usually have English words as well. A large section had bottles with various kinds of fruit in liquid. Not sure what this was since the English was missing. We are sometimes brave but not today. The locals definitely like mayonnaise and ketchup. Mustard is virtually nonexistent. Pasta is more prevalent than rice. Sliced lunch meat is only salami. Cheddar cheese doesn’t exist. Oreo cookies are popular but no other American brands. Plastic bags cost extra. Hard liquor is sold in grocery stores. People buy for the day not the week or month.

Day 2 April 28, 2026 Baku Azerbaijan

The cook let us in even earlier today. The reception guy says she really likes us. Today she had hard boiled eggs and sunny side up eggs. Most of the rest was very similar. The two ladies showed up shortly afterwards. Today they didn’t take away quite as much food. They must have different plans.

We have hired a guide and driver for the next three days. They are scheduled to pick us up at 10 am. We were in the lobby about 9:45 and they were already there. We are headed for the old city. The driver drops us off and we begin the walk. We stopped at a statue of a significant man in the history of the city. Unfortunately we didn’t write down his name and these names are difficult to remember.

One of the metro stations is nearby and looks like the glass pyramid outside the Lourve in Paris. There is also a funicular nearby. A little further along is a bronze head of another important person. The hair is actually scenes of people.

The streets in the old city are very narrow and covered with cobblestones. The houses seem to be well cared for. One of the larger ones is the residence of the Italian ambassador. The miniature book museum is just opening. A room is filled with glass cases containing very small books. A couple of them are so small we could barely see them under a magnifying glass. They are in different languages and different sizes,

Some of the houses have balconies added on. They are usually wooden and may or may not be closed in. This is when we learned that if a man has a large stomach that is called a balcony. Rob has a small balcony for his age. We also learned that Azerbaijan is the land of fire and Baku is the Windy City. After today I am sure it rivals Chicago. The land of fire also explains why some of the glass buildings look like a flame. The oil and gas resources are the prominent income for the country.

The old city was originally surrounded by two walls with a moat between them. The outer wall was shorter and the moat was filled with oil not water. So if the enemy got over the first wall they set the moat on fire.

A break in the houses lets us catch a glimpse of the Caspian Sea. The guide explains that it is like a lake and a sea at the same time. The water is salty as there is no outlet. It is surrounded by land like a lake. The current water level is 91 feet below normal so it is actually below sea level.

The Maiden Tower is surrounded in legends. Some say it was a fire temple, some an astrological structure and some say it was an escape for the royal family. The tower is circular with very thick walls. At the base the walls are about 16 feet thick. It is very earthquake resistant.

At least two caravan lodges are in the old city. Today they serve much the same purpose as they house small merchants and shops.

The driver picked us up and took us to where we could walk to a view point of the sea. The area had once been a cemetery but the Russians dug it up and put all the bodies in a mass grave. A few newer graves are along one side. We got to the lookout spot. The wind was blowing so hard that the big flag that is normally on the 626 foot flag pole is not flying. Visible from this spot is the Ferris wheel, small shopping mall, more glass buildings, and the carpet museum.

We offered to take the guys to lunch. The guide and driver had quite a discussion where to go but came up with one. We were let out and the driver would park the car. Not sure where because space is a premium. We had crispy eggplant which is the best eggplant I have ever had and two meat dishes. One was done with cherries and one with chestnuts. We had a tropical fruit lemonade that was delicious.

Then we went to the carpet museum. Neither of us were real excited about this but it turned out to be quite interesting. The building is shape like a folded carpet. It is three stories tall with modern carpet on the third floor. They are significantly different.

Then it was back to the hotel. More writing and a trip to the bigger grocery store at the end of the block. Some interesting things there. Oh yes we must mention the area for one piece of luggage to rest. It has a shelf behind a moveable wire mesh door. When you move the door to get to the luggage, the door blocks the hall to the main door and a light comes on. What will they think of next?

Day 1 April 27, 2026 Baku Azerbaijan

Not the best night sleep. The coverlet was thin and too small for the size of the mattress. Therefore getting up by seven wasn’t too difficult. We wanted to be sure to make breakfast.

We got to the breakfast room a few minutes before 8. The cook was still getting food out but she told us to come on in. Some interesting salads and pastries. Both black and green olives are options in the salad area. The familiar cherry juice in addition to the orange. Let the fun begin. Two ladies who were most likely local came in. They both filled two large plates full of food. They ate from one and then took out a plastic bag and filled it with hard boiled eggs, pastries and bread. No wonder the clerk yesterday said get there on time. Some another person did a similar thing. By 9 most of the food was gone. Turns out quite a few people stayed there because the breakfast room was full. We were the only English speakers.

While looking for lunch options we discovered that a Hilton Garden Inn was only a few blocks away. We went to investigate. Today is very windy which was good some of the time and not so good other times. We walked past two embassies on the way. Well options here look much better so we booked a room for the rest of our stay. Tomorrow we have a guide and driver so we will have them drop us off at the Hilton.

While there we asked about a kebab house nearby. They didn’t recommend one but rather another restaurant not far from the hotel. Off we went. They were correct the place was close and the food was pretty good. We had a small loaf of bread, pickled cucumber, french fries and grilled donor meat. (Not sure how that is spelled.) The donor was probably a chicken.

On the way back to our hotel we found an ATM so we got a little more cash. The ATM’s here don’t charge a use fee. They adjust the exchange rate to cover their charges. Right across the street was a kabob cafe. Maybe another day.

The wind was blowing so hard it nearly knocked us over at one point. The half block to the hotel was like walking in a wind tunnel.

The rest of the day was relaxing and trying to catch up a little on the blog.