Spoffords Travel

Day 6 April 26, 2026 Tbilisi Georgia to Baku Azerbaijan

Today we leave Georgia so time for some parting thoughts. Tbilisi is a busy modern city. They are replacing the Russian structures as fast as money allows. The city suburbs have modern apartment complexes. Everyone has cell phones. The city is clean with very little graffiti. The Russians destroyed much of their history although maybe not as much as in Armenia. Georgia has a different alphabet and language from Armenia. The natural gas lines are above ground here as well. Natural gas is available throughout most if not all the country.

Now we fly to Azerbaijan because its too far to drive and the train is not available for passengers. Oh, and the ground border is closed. The trip to the airport took about 30 minutes because this is Sunday morning and traffic is less. The suggested arrival time is 2.5 hours before flight time. We arrived on time but the check-in counter wasn’t open yet. Going through passport control was easy enough. The wait was very short. The airport is small compared to many large city airports. On the other side we see several members of our tour group waiting for their flights. They won’t post the gate for at least another hour. There is time for us to twiddle our thumbs.

We boarded the plane which was full of passengers. The flight is very short only about 50 minutes. In that time they served a sandwich and juice or water. You had a choice of cheese or turkey sandwich. We both chose turkey. Sure could have used some mustard. They are not polite getting off the aircraft. People jumped up and raced down the aisle. They do like to push and shove.

Passport control was easy again. Our visas seemed to be in order. We did notice a kiosk where you could get a visa on entry. Our luggage made it so that is good. Rob had downloaded an app for the Azerbaijan form of Uber. It is called “BOLT”. Seemed to work just fine. The driver would be there in 2 minutes and we were still inside the airport. With the help of a policeman we got our ride. The pick up point was hard to find. Nice car and what seemed to be a good driver.

The drivers here may be crazier than in Georgia if possible. They stop only inches from the car in front. They change lanes on a whim assuming there are lanes. Intersections are wild because streets come from numerous directions. Roundabouts are very common. Traffic lights, stop signs and yield signs don’t exist much. Some of the streets are three or four lanes in each direction but some are only one lane period. Not sure how they know which direction they go. The thought is either. Cars are parked on the sides so close together I don’t know how they got in nor how they are going to get out. There are very few pickups on the road. Some of the cars have self-installed flat racks on top of the roofs to haul bigger items or building material. There are many police cars scattered around. Most of the police are doing something on the cell phones.

The buildings in the outskirts are very modern looking. The architects have had a wonderful time. Lots of glass and buildings that look like a flame. The closer we get to the city center the architecture looks more European.

The address given for our hotel is wrong. Not unusual for the booking apps. Given the name of the hotel our driver managed to find it. We got out of the car and opened the door to what we thought was the hotel. Major construction was going on so we thought we had the wrong place. We started down the block when a man came out to see if we were looking for the hotel. They are doing major renovation to the lobby.

Two people are at the reception desk. Rob worked with one and Connie talked to the other. Breakfast is served from 8-10 but best to be there by 8. The American Embassy is located just down the street. The hotel doesn’t get many Americans. The room is not bad but it also is not great. Rather small and with only one chair. The hotel looked much better on the reservation app.

We learned of a small market just about a block down the street. We went out to get something for supper and some additional water. Rob asked about an ATM. A man who works for the embassy told him where to go. Connie stayed in the store and looked at options. We ended up getting some big cup of noodles, bread, salami, mustard, cheese and cookies. What an exciting meal on the town. We don’t skimp on most meals but it can happen when you travel with Rob.

Sorry no pictures today. I guess we just forgot.

Day 5 April 25, 2026 Tbilisi

Connie is under the weather today and chose to remain at the hotel. She coughed a lot during the night so not much rest. It is a real bummer to be sick on a trip.

Rob did go on the tour. First stop Jvari Monastery. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. According to traditional accounts, on this location in the early 4th century Saint Nino, a female evangelist credited with converting King Mirian III of Iberia to Christianity, erected a large wooden (or vine) cross on the site of a pagan temple. The cross was reportedly able to work miracles and therefore drew pilgrims from all over the Caucasus. This may be why there were a large number of opportunities to do some souvenir shopping. Lots of shops. However, the merchants were not out bothering people. Many of our group bought items to take home.

Then down into Mtskheta, one of the oldest cities in Georgia and a sacred pilgrimage site. We toured the 11th-century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. Tradition says Christ’s mantle is buried here. The cathedral is recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. It is currently the second-largest church building in Georgia, after the Holy Trinity Cathedral. There was a traditional baptism in progress which included a traditional crying baby. It was a very long service. Several of our group watched for at least 30 minutes and had to leave before the service was completed. We felt sorry for the baby who was ready to leave after about 5 minutes.

For our farewell dinner we went to Barbarestan. Connie did manage to join the group. The dishes are from a 19th-century recipe book by Duchess Barbara Jorjadze. Every dish was artfully presented and served to us by the waiters. We had almost as many waiters as guests. Some of the dishes were small portions on a large plate. For the first time we did not have tomato and cucumber salad. We had a choice for main course of beef tenderloin, pork, sturgeon, rabbit or vegetarian. We both chose the beef. That was really tender steak but undercooked. Rob ordered medium well and it was well rare. Dessert was birthday cake for one of the group. We all sang Happy Birthday. We were also entertained by folk music played on a guitar and accordion.

Day 4 April 24, 2026 Telavi to Tbilisi Georgia

In the heart of Telavi, stands a natural marvel that has born silent witness to centuries of history – the Giant Plane Tree. This majestic organism, the largest tree in Georgia, exudes a unique charm. The tree is 150 feet tall and 39.4 feet in width. Sixteen men are needed to hold hands in order to circle it. The tree has stood here for 900 years.

Near the tree is a statue of a snail. Several very large snails live in that area. You might trip on one if not careful.

Also nearby is Batonis Castle, a 17th–18th century architectural monument. The Batonis Tsikhe complex includes some surviving sections of the Persian-style palace of the kings of Kakheti and a museum with archaeological and ethnographic exhibits, manuscripts, rare publications, and military equipment as well as a fine arts gallery. The original palace was built sometime between 1664 and 1675. In the political turmoil of the 17th and 18th centuries, the palace was damaged and reconstructed several times.

Next stop the Gremi Fortress composed of the royal citadel and the Church of the Archangels. We climbed 90 steps to reach it. No problem. The stairs are big, uneven and made of well used rock. The building has three entrances, one facing west, one facing south, and the third facing north. The interior is crowned with a dome supported by the corners of the sanctuary and two basic piers. The façade is divided into three arched sections. The dome sits on an arcaded drum which is punctured by eight windows.This was the seat of Queen Ketevan, who was martyred in 1624 in Persia for refusing to renounce her Christian faith.

Lunch was at yet another winery. Here we learned how wine is made in clay pots buried in the ground. The grapes, including seeds, stems and skin, are crushed and poured in a pot buried in the ground. Every few hours this is stirred. Eventually the liquid is siphoned off into another pot. The process continues until the desired fermentation has happened. In Georgia there is only black grapes and white grapes. The two are never mixed. For the first time we had no dessert.

Back on the bus and off to Tbilisi. During this ride we had a comfort stop. While there we spotted our one and only Ford Model A. It was a 30/31 AA truck with lots of modifications. It was converted into a mobile wine truck that was used for demonstrations. There is a phone number on the window if you are interested.

Day 3 April 23, 2026 Tsinandali Estate Georgia

Much to the surprise of our guide, the day is beautiful and the mountains can be seen in the distance. This is a rare event so the bus stopped so everyone could take pictures,

The original start of the day was a stop at Bodbe Monastery. Originally built in the 9th century, it has been significantly remodeled, especially in the 17th century. The monastery now functions as a nunnery and is one of the major pilgrimage sites in Georgia, due to its association with St. Nino, the 4th-century female evangelist of Georgians, whose relics are shrined there. Nuns still live here. They keep a close eye on visitors. The chapel has many frescos so photos are not allowed. You can get a very strong scolding if you fail to follow the rules. We did not get scolded. It’s a beautiful peaceful place. The nuns raise some of their own food and sell hand made items.

Another city walk around the town of Sighnaghi. Lots of hills and cobblestone streets. This is definitely a tourist town. The bus was met with large electric golf carts offering city tours. We walked. No special rides for the older generation. The streets are only about one car wide so drivers must be on their toes. We ate lunch at a local restaurant.

After lunch we went to the estate of Aleksandre Chavchavadze. This is the ancestral summer home where he entertained and spent time in Georgia. The history of the Tsinandali Chavchavadze complex originates in the 17th century when Heraclius I resettled the ancestors of Chavchavadzes from the village of Chavchavadze, to strengthen the village. The first building was built in 1818, and in 1831 the second. In 1829, the water pump was built. The site also contains 12 hectares of the wooded area, where the garden-park was made in 1835 by European decorators. In 1840, Alexander Chavchavadze built a winery. Its name is associated with the introduction of new vines and the implementation of technological innovations in winemaking, the highly regarded dry white Tsinandali, is still produced there. Picture taking was not allowed inside the manor house. We did not get scolded for taking pictures here.

Day 2 April 22, 2026 Tbilisi Georgia

We headed out of town to a cave city. Access to the city was very non friendly for Connie so she stayed near the entrance. This is the ancient city of Uplistsikhe. Built on a high rocky left bank of the Mtkvari River, it contains various structures dating from the Early Iron Age to the Late Middle Ages, and is notable for the unique combination of various styles of rock-cut cultures from Anatolia and Iran, as well as the co-existence of pagan and Christian architecture. The earliest traces of human presence in Uplistsikhe date back to the end of the 2nd millennium BC. Its earliest remaining structures are from the beginning of the 1st millennium AD. The complex had been very large during the height of its glory. Eventually other cities became more important.

Lunch today was at a family run winery. Wine is a major product here just as in Armenia. We had to leave the bus and be taken by 4-wheel drives. After seeing the road it was obvious the bus would not have made it. The farm has fruit trees as well as the grape vines. Lunch is in a large room with two big tables. How Gate One found this place we have no idea. Once again the quantity of salads left little room for the main meat course. The other problem is the amount of time to prepare the meat. It consistently seems like they don’t start cooking the meat until the salads are done.

After lunch we visited the Stalin Museum. He was born in Georgia but never returned after going to Russia. His childhood home is very near the museum and is undergoing restoration work. The rail car he traveled in was also there. He didn’t trust doctors so when he fell ill, doctors were not allowed in to see him until he had passed. So he killed millions of people and probably killed himself. Another strange leader.

Dinner this evening is on our own. Rob found a grocery store and bought cup of soup type noodles we could do in the room. We have eaten so much food that a light meal is good.

Day 1 April 21 Tbilisi Georgia

We start with a short bus ride to one of the city’s famous churches Metekhi. Much of the existing structure dates back to the Middle Ages and was built between 1278 and 1289 AD under the reign of King Demetrius II of Georgia, although oral tradition traces Metekhi’s origins further to the 5th century. Following a tradition in Georgian architecture of harmonious relationship of temples with the surrounding natural landscape, Metekhi Church was built to look like a growing continuation of the cliff, visible from many city points.

Very close is the statue of King Vakhtang I Gorgasali, the 5th-century founder of Tbilisi. He sits on his horse. The statue is visible for quite some distance.

We next visited the National History Museum. The two most popular areas are the gold room and the Soviet Occupation. Both were interesting but not amazing. The Soviet Occupation was a very dark room.

We drove to the old city and started a walking tour in the rain. A short distance in we all stopped to watch a puppet show. The puppet show was to be in an opening in a small clock tower. The entire thing looked like a fancy cuckoo clock. Shortly after noon the doors opened and two figures were there. They moved out of the window and two others appeared. Then the doors closed. They were not puppets something more like dolls. What a disappointment. The buildings here are interesting and often unusual shapes. On our way back to the row of restaurants a group of children and a few adults dressed in native costume headed for one of the churches. A priest from that church had recently passed and this was part of a ceremony. Lots of cameras everywhere.

Lunch was on our own today but we ate where most of the folks including our guide did. We ate food closer to home. Connie had an interesting ice tea drink. Ice might not have been the best choice.

After lunch we walked to the cable car via the Peace Bridge for a ride to the top of the hill. You could see much of the city from there. The place was popular with the locals too. On up the hill was the statue of Mother Georgia.

Back to the hotel for a short free time before going out for dinner. Almost all of the businesses accept credit cards. We did get some local currency from ATM’s for small purchases and access to toilets.

Day 8 April 20, 2026 Dilijan Armenia to Tbilisi Georgia

We drove on into the town of Dilijan for a short walking tour of the town center. We saw a woodworking shop and a ceramic studio. The town is on hills so virtually everything is up or down. Nice place.

Our final Armenian site was the medieval Haghpat Monastery complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that doubled as a major center of learning in the Middle Ages. They had a library, outside work area, storage for food and wine. The monastery was constructed between the tenth and thirteenth centuries. The storage area was underground because the sides and top were covered with dirt and grass. Odd though because you entered without going down.

A short drive later we were at our lunch stop. This would be the farewell lunch as we will soon cross the border into Georgia. Sorry to leave our guide and driver behind. They were both so good.

Some thoughts about Armenia: lots of buildings still reflect the Soviet Era but they are working to remove it. Their election in June will greatly influence their next direction. One of the main candidates is pro Russian. The country has been controlled by so many different empires. Hard to believe these people have stayed so loyal to their heritage. Wages are low and people are moving from the country to the city. The government is working to develop ways to keep people employed in the villages. There is a wood shortage because the countryside still heats with wood. Natural gas is available everywhere but is expensive for farmers and such. The natural gas pipelines are all above ground and only a few feet from the road. They get the gas from Russia and Iran. The country has an incredible history that we knew nothing about. The landscape is varied and incredible. The temperatures were cooler than we expected.

The border is not much further. We get off the bus just outside the passport control. We go through there and meet the bus again on the other side. We drive to the Georgia border where we collect our bags, say goodbye and walk into passport control.

Well that part was easy. Then they scanned our bags and for some reason didn’t like our pill bottles. We carry our vitamins and prescriptions in bottles but not necessarily their bottles. They took out every container, read the labels and looked on some kind of list. Finally they just said go. Really don’t know what they were thinking.The pills were in Connie’s day pack and she looks so much like a drug runner.

We met our Georgian guide Nik and set off for the capital Tbilisi. We are already missing Armenia.

The terrain for the roughly 1.5 hour drive is relatively flat. Mountains are in the distance but they aren’t as impressive looking. Well Tbilisi looks much more modern than Yerevan. The traffic is even worse. The drivers are crazy. A pedestrian takes their life in their hands just walking down the street. Hopefully you don’t need to cross. We drove along the Mtkvari River which starts in Turkey and ends in the Caspian Sea. Our hotel is close to this river.

Later in the evening we had our welcome dinner. As expected some of the foods are similar and some are different. A couple of folks are already saying they don’t want another tomato and cucumber salad. The sad thing is there are so many salads that you are full before the main course ever arrives.