Finland 2016 – Part 2

Finland 2016 Part 2
July 27, 2016 Joensuu
What a horrible night’s sleep! Not only was it hot but the black out curtains were little
more than sheer drapes. With the long daylight hours it made for a short night. We
haven’t really adjusted to this time zone yet. We have decided to try the train this time.
We tried booking on line last night but that didn’t work with the iPad or iPhone so we
went to a train station to buy tickets. We were able to get the time of departure so that
helps. The station was virtually empty except for a small coffee shop. We did find the
ticket machine which luckily has English. Buying the ticket was quite simple. The credit
card reader is part of the machine. I don’t think we mentioned that you must have a chip
card. They no longer have the ability or just won’t read the swipe based credit cards.
The locals use chip debit cards for everything. Some places take cash but by far the
bulk of transactions are with plastic.
The train announcements are made in three languages: Finnish, Swedish and English.
All of which are automated. Both Finnish and Swedish are the official languages of the
country. We think the Swedish is a hold over from when the Swedes controlled this
country. The trains are electric so they are very quiet. If you are out of sight of the train
you wouldn’t know it arrived or left. We have assigned seats so you just have to find
them. The train also has wifi at no charge. The train averages about 120 km per hour
which is slow compared to Japan’s.
We are headed for Joensuu which is a university town on the eastern side of the
country. Like many Finnish towns it sits on a lake. The countryside along the way is just
as before. Pine and birch forest broken up by lakes and farms. On further observation
we think primarily the out buildings are red with white trim and the houses are white, tan
or a light color. It appears that most of the dairy cattle spend their entires lives in a barn.
We did see a few horses grazing outside.
We arrived at the station and walked about 0.6 miles to the hotel. Today is very hot
again so we tried to go on the shady side of the streets if possible. We got to our room
and once again the air conditioning was a small fan. Obviously this heat is not normal.
We went down to the reception and asked for an additional fan. With effort they
managed to find one. At least the curtains were a little thicker for tonight. We ate our
sandwiches and took a short nap before going out to look around. We usually have
sandwiches for one of our daily meals.
A little about sandwiches and chips. We go to the grocery store and buy rolls, meat and
cheese to make our own sandwiches. Rolls come in a variety of shapes and grain
content. They can be round, rectangular, or oval. They can be white, whole grain, or rye.
They come with or without various seeds. Deli meats come in many flavors none of
which we have figured out. We go by looks only. Cheese is white and mild. We bought
mustard in a yellow plastic tube. That is how we knew it was mustard. Red tubes are
ketchup and white ones are mayonnaise. Well the mustard we chose turned out to be
sweet and we prefer spicy. Oh well sometimes you just get “tubed”. We bought potato
chips that said salted on the package. Upon eating them that must be a Finnish word for
no flavor. These were the driest most tasteless chips ever. They make the baked ones
at home seem wonderful. We also had chocolate sandwich cookies. These must have
the same manufacturers all over the world. One chocolate cookie and one white cookie
with a cream filling that is chocolate in color at least. Certainly nothing exciting. They
aren’t very sweet.
We walked around town for a look. The old city hall was located nearby. The building
was brick which is unusual. It now houses a gallery and restaurant. Large statues adorn
the sides of the top floor.
At least two big malls are located nearby. Some of the store names look familiar. Most
windows indicate sales. Must be the big summer clearance season. Stores and
attractions close at 5:00 pm for the most part. We decided to try a Finnish hamburger
from Hessburger. They are a chain competing with McDonalds, but I think McDonalds is
winning. We got Magnum ice cream bars from the nearby grocery for desert. They are
only 1.99 euros vs at least 3 euros for an ice cream cone from an outside vendor.
A short walk took us to the lake shoreline. A very nice walk or bike path goes near the
water. Benches are also scattered along the way. A set of locks is nearby. These are
used for boats wishing to avoid the adjacent rapids. Bicycles are more prevalent than
boats. We did see some kayakers and a sight seeing boat.
July 28, 2016
Well with the two fans sleeping was better but still not good. We paid an additional 8
euros each for breakfast and this one was not nearly as good. Price and quality are not
always related.
Back to the bus for a trip to Varkaus. Most of our bus rides have been about two hours.
No change of scenery. For some reason this bus had no working wifi. Coming into town
was a very large wood mill. It had three of the biggest piles of sawdust we think that we
have ever seen. The piles of logs were huge too. We learned later the mill produces
paper.
Once again we had about a half mile walk to the hotel. We got to our room which again
had no air conditioning and no fan. We went down to comment that our reservation
included air conditioning so we got to change rooms. This was much nicer and cool!
With all the walking and heat we experienced a big blister on Connie’s left foot. Rob
went to get a needle from the sewing kit in his toiletry bag. That is when we discovered
he didn’t have it. A call to the last hotel said to call back in 30 minutes while they
checked.
In the mean time we headed to the mechanical Music Museum. The receptionist said
there was no city bus but it was walkable. Well that is a relative word. It turned out to be
nearly two miles each way. Over the river, over the train tracks and over the freeway.
The museum folks were quite surprised we had walked so far. We paid the 14 euros
each entry fee. Then we went upstairs to join the tour. Wow what a treat this was. The
two story building was packed with mechanical musical things of all types and sizes.
The room we first entered contained a couple of player pianos, a couple of musical
street carts and a huge full orchestra piece. The tour was given in both Finnish and
English for sure. Swedish might have been in there too. The next room had drums and
accordion pieces. Down stairs we got a new guide who was a comedian and vocalist.
Now we had violins, bird cages and gramophones. Oh yes, a chair that played when
you sat on it. A large very bright piece was in another room. It could play for hours and
was found in pubs and coffee shops. Another one had life size people playing drums,
saxophone and guitar. The pieces just went on and on. When you get back where you
started you can leave or go around again. A tour takes about 90 minutes. Oh what fun.
The museum is family owned and operated. When we left the son had is classic Pontiac
ready to take us back. We were both pleased. By now Connie had matching blisters on
each foot. A return call to the hotel resulted in a “no find” of the toiletry bag.
Dinner tonight was at a small pizza and kebab cafe. We had one kebab with pita bread
and one like a burrito. These were 7-8 euros each. They were a much better deal than
the 3 euro cola drinks.
We learned of Onnibus from the museum. We checked online. They are a new bus
company offering greatly discounted tickets. Their tickets cost less than half of the other
competing bus companies. You can book online and as long as you have the
reservation number you are good. So we booked tickets to Kuopio.
July 29, 2016
While waiting for the bus we talked to a Finnish couple who came to pick up their
granddaughter. They were both eager to talk English. They told of growing up upon the
lake with only a boat for transportation. They thought we should go to Savolinna for the
opera festival and see the castle. The only problem was that rooms are difficult to come
by this late in the game.
The Onnibus is a big red double decker that is difficult to miss. It had a female driver
unlike the other bus companies. She unloaded the arriving luggage and then loaded the
new passenger’s luggage. All she did to confirm your ticket is look at the confirmation
number either on your smart phone or a piece of paper. Passengers don’t print anything.
Inside the seats are close together much like cheap airline seats. The bus was clean
and air conditioned so it was just fine. They also have wifi but much slower. A few bugs
to work out yet.
Kuopio like many Finnish towns is on a lake. The hotel was only a half mile walk from
the bus station and right on the city market. Big malls are located on both sides of the
square. We got settled in and ate our sandwiches. Across the square was a tourist
information sign so we headed out. We got there just as they closed and it was only
3:00 PM. Great working hours if you can get them. Time to punt.
We were trying to get to the right harbor to take a scenic boat tour. We found one of
many bus stops and determined that bus 1 would get us close. Lucky for us that bus 1
was right there and ready to leave on the last trip of the day. He dropped us close to the
harbor and off we went. Only way back is walk or take a taxi.
Well the tour boats are easy to find as they are lined along the board walk. Most do just
a tour and a meal cruise. We opted for the tour only which was 13 euros each for a
senior rate. With a short stop for ice cream we boarded the boat. The cruise took 90
minutes with some description in all three languages. The lake has about 3,000
kilometers of shoreline. A lot of where we passed by had apartments or houses. The
houses come in all sizes but similar rectangular shape. Some sit right on the water and
others back a bit. Numerous islands are scattered throughout the area and most of
those have houses as well. Most people here must own boats. Where ever the houses
are not there are trees.
We departed the boat and asked where the taxis might be. We got an almost blank look
but she pointed in a general direction. Well there were no taxis there but the local
grocery ordered one for us. Surprisingly the cost was only about 13 euros. The bus was
6.60 and wasn’t door to door.
We read about a restaurant near the hotel that served Finnish food. We checked their
menu online but decided against it. The next best sounding one was back at the harbor.
So it goes. Sad to say we tried a McDonalds next door. We ordered fiesta chicken
salads. We don’t recommend these.
July 30, 2016
Today we are off to Kajaani. The city’s claim to fame was the largest tar producing area.
We expected to see more industry but the city was very clean. The hotel was on the
main shopping street but then they only have one shopping street.
An old wooden church was located a few blocks away so we headed there. It sits on a
small hill surrounded by trees. A war memorial and graves were on one side. The
graves each had a plaque with the name and date. Across the top of the marker each
grave had s large fuschia with pale green fern like plants on either side. They were
gorgeous.
The church was open so we went inside. Two young guides greeted us. They gladly told
us all about the church and the memorial. The inside was simple but lovely. A second
level seating is on each side. The pews are all wooden with no cushions. A large organ
was located in the rear. The church has seating for 800. There was a memorial nearby
for those killed here during the German occupation. Two Mormon missionaries greeted
us on the way back.
We walked through the main shopping street. We found a grocery store and bought
food for the next couple of days. Tomorrow is Sunday and almost everything is shut
down. Back out of the store and there was live music playing in the street. Quite a few
people are sitting out drinking some beverage and listening to the music. This group is
playing a combination of English and Finnish rock music.
Dinner was at a local restaurant. We had chicken pasta and beef liver. The liver was
served with sweet potato purée, root vegetables, bacon, Bernaisse sauce and
ligonberry preserves. Oh how delicious. (Only one of us is into liver.)
July 31 Rovaniemi
Today started with a 4.5 hour train ride. We headed to Rovaniemi which is the capital of
Lapland. Still the scenery has not changed. We have noticed that the number of small
motor homes has increased. Occasionally a small camp trailer goes by. We passed one
large camp ground with many recreational vehicles and boat trailers. Next to all that is a
golf course. We have actually seen several golf courses.
For a change we took a cab to the hotel. The temperature is about 80 degrees today
which is very warm for here. Our room is quite warm and no air conditioning just the fan.
However, it was a bigger fan.
We headed for the museum that is supposed to be one of the best in Finland. We
encountered a few Japanese tourists who confirmed we were on the right way. We
haven’t seen many of them. In fact we haven’t seen many foreign tourists.
The museum is large and full of information about life in the Arctic region and the history
of the area. They have lots of activities for kids which is good. The building is divided left
and right. Both sides have two stories. One side is the history and the other about life in
the region. We got senior rates again which was nice. We bought post cards and
stamps on the way out.
More small motor homes are in this area. We have seen quite a few on the road. Most
Finns vacation in July and this is obviously a popular area. We don’t think we have
mentioned much about all the flower pots in the cities. They have all planted large pots
of flowers. Some sit on the sidewalks. Some hang from lamp posts. Some are in parks
and some are on railings. They are full of blooms in lots of bright colors. A nice touch.
On the way back to the hotel we ate at a hamburger place. The Finns love hamburgers
and hot dogs because they are everywhere. The fries in this place are served with
mustard, ketchup, relish, and onions all sprinkled on top. You dispensed your own soda
from a machine but a refill costs 1 euro.
July 31, 2016
Breakfast this morning had perfectly round pancakes served with your choice of six
toppings. They also had champagne. The dining room was full when we went down at
8:00. We did not beat the rush traffic this morning.
Back on the bus for a 3.5 hour ride to Oulu. This town must have one of the shortest
names in Finland. Very little change from before. We did see a horse farm with horses
outside. The bus driver was really friendly. The clouds look ominous and we did get a
little rain.
We took a cab again. Rides cost more on Sunday. The hotel is across the street from
the town cathedral. After leaving the bags and making reservations for tomorrow we
headed there. Once again a guide greeted us at the door. Another university student.
These must be good summer jobs. He seemed to know a great deal about the church.
What appeared to be marble pillars were actually wood painted to look like marble. The
inside was simple with very few ornamentations. Both old and new stained glass is in
the windows. Another beautiful organ is in the back. The pipes are silver and it has
some of the wooden pillars painted like marble. A model sailing ship hangs from the
ceiling near the back. Church bells ring on the hour and half hour.
The town hosted a music festival on Friday and Saturday. The nearby park is not as
clean and spotless. Crews will be busy Monday. A local apologized for the mess.
We walked down to the water to see the castle. Either we were in the wrong place or
very little of it exists. The walk was nice though. The clouds are getting darker and more
of them. We decided to find a place to eat before the rains. We chose what looked like a
popular place. They serve hamburgers, pizza, kebabs, hot wings, and salmon. Rob had
one of the burgers and Connie had honey glazed salmon. Both were delicious.
The walk back was in a little drizzle. We didn’t melt however.
August 1, 2016
The breakfast area was really quiet. They had about as many workers as guests. The
cold cereal today had lots of add ins such as coconut flakes, dried fruits, and nuts.
Currents are popular throughout the country. So far we have seen black, red and tan.
Either this was a new hotel or recently renovated because everything looked clean and
new. Reindeer antlers and furs supply lots of the decorations. The basement had a
swimming pool and sauna. Saunas have popular all over the country. They must feel
really good in the winter here. They just don’t sound so appealing in the summer.
Back to the bus for a trip to Vaasa. An Onnibus was already there but it was going
elsewhere. Others were waiting for our same bus. We talked with three young college
age girls who were headed home for a few days. They may have been up for the music
festival. They had very long bus rides ahead of them of at least seven hours. These
busses don’t stop for much so that has got to be a long ride. We are glad ours is only
four hours. The driver doesn’t want much luggage going on the bus. He said it will be
full. Close to half of the seating is consumed now. The word is out about the cheap
seats.
The ride is the same old stuff. Lots of trees, farms and water. Not as many lakes as the
eastern side but still plenty. More farms are here compared to further north. The grain
still has not matured enough to harvest.
We arrived in Vaasa which was the capital during Swedish rule. We got a hotel very
close to the bus station. We had less than a block to go. Yea! The hotel is located in the
same building as the post office and several other businesses. We tried to find the
reception area. Come to find out they don’t have one. The confirmation email contains a
code to open the hall door and our room. Only problem the room is not available until
four and the time is now about two. Therefore the code doesn’t work. About then the
cleaning lady came along. Our room had not yet been cleaned but when it was ready
she did let us in. Well this is a real change from the night before. For the first time we
have a microwave in the room. No air conditioning, no fan and the window doesn’t open.
It’s going to be a hot time in the old town tonight.
The town hall and cathedral are two of the main sights. Luckily they are not far down the
road from the hotel. The street has lots of trees and more space for people and bikes
than cars. Lots of people are out shopping, enjoying a coffee with friends, or just
walking by. We found the city hall about 3 blocks down the way. This was the old one
and is no longer used for that purpose. It now has an art gallery and special exhibitions.
This week is a music festival. Several young people are there. We asked about the
concert. Tickets could be purchased at the office on the other side of the cathedral. After
some conversation we headed off to see the cathedral and then buy tickets.
Unfortunately the cathedral was closed on Mondays so off to find the office. We ended
up walking all the way around the next building before finding the office. They sold us
tickets at the member price which was nice and also gave us one of the books detailing
the festival participants. That sold for 5 euros. The tickets were 22 euros each. The
concert started at 7 pm. We ate a quick supper and made a stop at the grocery store.
Back for the concert. The room is beautiful and must have served as a ballroom at
some point in time. A grand piano sat on stage. They opened the door 15 minutes
before the start time. Surprisingly not that many people were in attendance. After
reading about the performers we were surprised. These were really top European
performers. First up was a baritone opera singer. Then came a pianist whose fingers
flew over the keyboard. The applause for his performance was so great he did play
another short piece. During intermission they tuned the piano for the second half. This
was a group of two violins, a cello, and a piano. Their music was outstanding as well but
they didn’t offer to play another piece. The pianist only played with his left hand. They
did make 3 curtain calls.
August 2, 2016
We had to be out of the room by noon but our bus didn’t leave until two. We ate a travel
meal in the room and then headed off to see the cathedral. A light drizzle was falling this
morning and the temperature was a little cooler. Once again a guide was in the
cathedral to talk about it and watch over things. She spoke excellent English. Come to
find out she is studying film and politics in Scotland. She will be going back to school in
a couple of weeks. She told us all about the building and the paintings in the front. This
structure was brick unlike the wood that has been most of the old buildings.
Another large brick building was at the end of the street. Turns out to be the Justice
Building. We only looked at the outside. We didn’t know any of the local residents.
We got back to the room and started to pack up. Thunder rolled in and the skies opened
up with buckets of rain. Small rivers of water run down the street. We had to leave the
room so off we go. On the main level we waited for the rain to ease a bit. The elevator
we used to go from street level to entry level was broken so we carried the bags down.
Down is much better than up. After about 10 minutes the rain eased so we headed for
the bus station. Luckily they had space to wait that was dry. A small cafe was there so
we bought lunch from them and ate while we waited.
The bus was really full this time. They should be making money with this run. Our ride to
Rauma was 3.5 hours. We were the only two getting off. The driver almost forgot to get
our bags out. Good thing the driver saw us waving our arms and dancing in the street.
Well, something got his attention.
The distance to the hotel was not too bad. No rain at the moment anyway. No cabs
either so we were glad it wasn’t raining. This is a Best Western Hotel. First we have
seen in the country.
Enjoy,
Rob and Connie…