Spoffords Travel

Day 21 July 22, 2025 Pelly Crossing Yukon to Teslin Yukon 287 miles

Sure enough the tire was flat this morning. Rob changed it before we even had breakfast. The wheel has numerous cracks which may have caused the flat. Time to look for another 21” wheel.

Not far down the road from the campsite we encounter another major road construction. This highway will really be something once all of this gets done. We had to follow a pilot car again for several miles.

We stopped for gas at Carmacks. A motorcyclist on his way north was excited to see us. He knew we had transmission problems and had been towed. Our picture is on a facebook group of the Dempster Highway. He encouraged us to get a YouTube channel and to post to the facebook group.

We stopped once again at Braeburn Lodge for a cinnamon roll. It’s nearly lunch time so we each had a bowl of their soup. Rob had Spanish Rice and Connie had sweet potato pumpkin with ginger. They came with a large homemade roll. One of the locals was very excited that we made it back.

A coyote ran across the road and then stood and watched us go by. Rob was convinced it was a wolf. He just likes to make a better story.

We might have left a little rubber behind. A flagger had the stop sign out at the bottom of a hill. Another vehicle was already waiting. Rob had to use the emergency brake to get us stopped in time.

A black bear is along side the road just ahead of us. By the time we got to the spot it had disappeared into the brush. They are all born camera shy.

Things got a little exciting when a big bumble bee got in the car. It most likely came in through the “air conditioner”. For those that don’t know the air conditioner on this car is the windshield open an inch or so. The side curtains are now tight enough that its doubtful a bumble bee could get in. It flew around our laps and on the seats. We think Rob finally killed it or knocked it unconscious. Whichever we didn’t see it again.

We arrived in Teslin and got into our room before a big rain storm hit. This is a small hotel with only about 10 rooms. It did have a microwave so we heated some of our supplies for supper.

The car transmission is shifting properly again. Rob gets a little anxious every time he shifts out of third gear.

Day 20 July 21, 2025 Tombstone Campground Yukon to Pelly Crossing Yukon 173 miles

Today is cloudy and some rain began to fall. It stopped for a few minutes but started up again. Rob has decided to try driving all the way home in second gear. That means going about 30 mph maximum. If we can get 180 miles a day it will only take us 12 days to get home by using the freeway from Pendleton Oregon on.

Since the gas tank is nearly empty and we have about 45 miles to the next fuel point, Rob added the Jerry can which should give us enough to get to the fuel point.

While we were eating our breakfast of granola bars we saw another fox headed into the campground. They are so pretty and their tails are huge.

We managed to get to the “Corner” which is the start of the Dempster Highway. We would not have driven more than 30 mph anyway. Mostly flat for this part but lots of washboards. We really bounce on those. Since this is a good fuel point we filled up. It was nearly noon so we pulled into an empty space and ate lunch.

We are a big draw. A car stopped and asked if they could take a picture. The driver was an actor. The passenger seemed to be his father. He wanted a picture in the car. He was dressed in red one piece pajamas and a black cowboy hat. He stood on the running board and waved. He was very excited. He told us that he makes an annual calendar for family and friends. We don’t know what month we will represent. They had seen us at the campground but we left before they got to us.

The Swiss couple we talked with in Tuktoyaktuk stopped as well. They gave us a card and said to come visit them the next time we were in Switzerland. They live 30 km from the Bernina factory.

We are now back on asphalt so at least the dust shouldn’t be as bad. We saw a motorcycle with a sidecar. We wondered why we had not seen one before now. We certainly saw lots of motorcycles. We also saw lots of pickups with campers on top.

Some of the drive looked smokey. We understand Alaska has lot of forest fires.

We came to one of the big construction areas. They run multiple pilot cars all the time. The construction goes for several miles. The part we drive on is about as rough as the Dempster. The new road should be much wider based on the amount of mountain they are removing. We were glad the pilot car was going slowly. We were able to stay with him. For several miles after that the road was not paved but appeared to be ready to do so.

We got to Pelly Crossing about quitting time. We thought they might have lodging. Either they were full. We were welcome to try the campground across the road.

We went over there. This is a free campground. We had stayed there last year. More gravel has been put down. We found a spot we could park off the road but not a pull through.

The outhouses here could use an upgrade. They needed new paint on the inside and a broom to get out the dirt and leaves on the floor. The toilet seat was sticky and the rest of the seat could use a new coat of paint a hook on the door would be nice too.

The driver’s side rear tire is low. Rob got out the tire pump and filled the tire. If it is down again in the morning he will change it. Several men came over and talked about the car.

A couple that had parked at the same turnout as we did were also at this campground. Amazing how many of the same people you see at other places on the trip. Everyone we have met have been very friendly and helpful.

Day 19 July 20, 2025 Eagle Plains Yukon to Tombstone Campground Yukon 185 miles

We decided to eat breakfast in the restaurant and then take off. The coffee and hot water were warmer than last time. We split a breakfast and added a slice of ham that worked out much better. We didn’t waste food that way. While we were waiting for our food, we found the news article CBC had done from the interview we gave in Inuvik.

https://www.google.com/gasearch?q=‘cbc new dempster highway look what driven&source=sh/x/gs/m2/5#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:f0c6f053,vid:85DquhkZUVU,st:0

We fueled at their pumps before heading out. This is the long stretch so we will have to use the gas in the Jerry cans. Today is sunny which means it will be dusty. The dust from the big trucks can be like dense fog sometimes.

We were going along just fine until the transmission got stuck in third gear as we were going up a small hill. No matter what Rob did it would not come out of gear. We stopped on the side of the road and waited. Very soon a pickup going the opposite direction stopped. We asked if he could tow us to the top of the hill where there was a turnout. He turned around and towed us to the top in the turnout. The folks we met in Inuvik stopped on their way by. Rob said he managed to get the car back in first gear. They said if we didn’t get to the campground in two hours they would come for us.

They left and soon after we did as well. Luckily the next stretch was long and quit flat. We were going through a large valley that had a warning sign for horses. We did see three at a house but none out on the open range.

Unfortunately the highest pass on the Dempster Highway was the next thing. We made it up the first small hill but then the gear was stuck again. We pulled over again. This time a lady in a car stopped. She couldn’t pull us but was willing to stop at the campground and find our friends. By the way they are Tom and Arlene Currie. Another pickup with camper stopped. They couldn’t tow us because they had a rental but they would also check in the campground.

In about 30 minutes Tom showed up. He and Rob discussed the plan. Tom is nervous about the down hill portions. The down hill from the pass is long and steep. They will figure some of it out as they go. Soon we are going up the small hill. Down that hill was interesting but successful. The next downhill however the tow strap came loose. They used duct tape to secure it again. Rob had been able to get the car back in first gear so the new plan is to tow to the top of the big hill and then we would drive down on our own. We managed to get down the hill and into the parking lot of the campground. The campground is full so we we stayed in the parking lot. Turns out that by morning we shared the parking lot with at least 10 other RV,s.

We were parked right next to the Curries so we did visit for awhile before eating some dinner. The microwave is not working correctly so our toasted cheese sandwiches weren’t as toasted as they could have been. For some reason the batteries had not charged up. The solar panels are so dusty they are not contributing much. Not sure why the extra charge from the car engine isn’t working. The electronics may not get charged tonight.

The campground has some wifi which is very busy. Lots of people are sitting at a table near the hotspot. The lite rain shower did not seem to bother them. We didn’t try to use it much.

Day 18 July 19, 2025 Yukon border to Eagle Plains Yukon 60 miles

Since we went to bed early we got up earlier. The fog is still there but the wind is less. Several more vehicles have arrived during the night. The temperature is not freezing but still cold.

Rob tried to start the car. It didn’t want to cooperate. We are sure everything is wet in the engine compartment. Just drying it off didn’t seem enough so Rob got out the spray can of DryWire. That did the trick and the car started. Rob brought Connie the electric blanket. We set there together for a few minutes and then Rob turned off the engine and went back to bed.

One by one the other vehicles left. The fog lifted and we could see the hills on the other side of the road. Even a small streak of blue was visible. Rob got up. We ate granola bars for breakfast. Rob packed up just in time for the fog to settle in again. It was as dense this time but we soon drove out of it.

The roads on this side are dry so we are back to the dust. We went up and down several steep grades but made it. Then came a long stretch where new gravel was being applied. That means they spray water also. The gravel has not been fully spread yet which makes driving rather tricky.

By about 1 pm we reached Eagle Plains and decided to spend the night. We were both still tired and we needed to catch up on some things. We have not had a day off since we started this adventure. Maybe we will call this a half day off.

We ate lunch in the restaurant and then waited for our room to be ready. They don’t let people in until 3 pm. Once in the room we took a nap. Then it was time to catch up on postings and do laundry. Rob also applied more RainEx to the windshield.

Day 17 July 18, 2025 Inuvik Northwest Territories to Yukon border 171 miles

One of the foxes returned this morning. We saw it a couple of times. One of the other campers reported seeing it with a squirrel. Possibly another fox or another trip with a crow. The fox is very comfortable in the campground.

The grandfather we met earlier came down for a short visit this morning. They are headed home as well. They live out of Whitehorse so it won’t take them as long. They are also driving a modern car.

About 9:30 a camera man/reporter from CBC News came for an interview. He asked lots of questions and took lots of pictures. Then he was off and so were we. So it was a bit of a late start this morning.

The rain fell off and on. In case you don’t remember we have no operational windshield wiper. Rob didn’t get new RainEx on so the rain drops aren’t disappearing as rapidly. About the time they clear up the rain starts again. The rain has good and bad points. The good is the dust is gone. The bad is the mud is horrible. The trailer is completely covered by the time we stopped. The back window of the woodie is also covered. The big trucks spray a lot of the mud but the woodie and trailer do also. If we did this trip more often, we should put mudflats on the rear fenders.

We got to the first ferry in good time. The roads in the Northwest Territories are pretty good for gravel. We could actually go about 40 mph in some stretches. This is the bigger of the two ferries. It was loading cars on the opposite side of the river. When it left the dock it went to the other side of a small river that feeds into the larger one. Two vehicles got on there. Then the ferry came to our side. The two vehicles that got on at the first stop drove over to the side and drove back onto the ferry. All that to get across a small river. We got on board and off we went.

The line on the other side to board the ferry was longer than usual. Four semi trucks plus passenger vehicles. We got off and they loaded one semi truck and some of the passenger vehicles. We pulled over to have lunch. While waiting one of the other semi drivers came over to see the vehicle. On his truck is a new government building. On another semi is a new morgue. Both are going out to islands. We thought the morgue seemed more than necessary for a very small village. Well it might also be used for a moose refrigerator. Some of the politicians try to buy votes in Canada like others around the world. These buildings will be loaded on a barge and transported five days to the island. The cost of the building was $1.8 million delivered. The morgue was $1 million.

On the next ferry load came the grandfather. He gave us his name and number in case we needed any help along the way. He also told us of a short cut that would save about 500 miles. We will have to investigate that one.

Rob was excited. He finally saw some wildlife. A duck was swimming in a nearby pond. Later he spotted a fox running across the road.

We drove into Fort McPherson for fuel. We saw a little of town. It looks very much the same. Colorful houses with four wheelers and snowmobiles.

The temperature is cooler today and rather windy. Picture taking doesn’t work well through the rain drops.

Then we hit fog. It was so dense we could barely see the road. We are close to the Yukon and Northwest Territories border. We were pretty sure it was at the top of the hill just ahead. We could barely see the turnout there. A couple of other vehicles were already there. We pulled off and parked. We had no idea how far that fog might go on the other side of the hill and we knew the roads were worse.

Rob set up everything for the night and fixed a container of soup each. The wind is blowing the fog such that we can see it pass in front of the car. We can barely see the camper about a car length in front of us. We finished our audio book in the car and then went to bed early. By that time the driver side of the car was wet through to the inside from the blowing fog and possible condinsation.

A vehicle pulled in and stopped. Rob went to talk to the lady driver. She wanted to know how far the fog continued. She was supposed to meet someone in Fort McPherson. She decided to stay. After about 10 minutes she must have decided to go because she turned around and eventually found the entrance and left. The fog/cloud was so thick she had trouble finding one of two exits.

Connie slept with her clothes on. She zipped up the sleeping bag and added an extra blanket. The inside walls of the teardrop are damp and so is the sleeping bag and pillow. Surprisingly however everything was quiet. It did warm up in the trailer so we did not stay cold for long. The two 12V electric blankets made a difference.

Day 16 July 17, 2025 Tuktoyaktuk Northwest Territories to Inuvik Northwest Territories 98 miles

The BnB has a continental breakfast for sure. Dry cereal and milk or instant hot cereals. They also had tea and coffee. The other couple staying there had already left. They were sure quiet.

We took our time and Rob did some calling he needed to get done. We were loading the car when the son of the BnB owner stopped and asked if he could take a picture. He also gave us a small piece of drift wood with a piece of glass imbedded in it. He claimed to be a starving artist.

We headed for the point so we can dip our fingers in the Arctic ocean. We got to the end which has a nice big sign. The grandfather and grandson were there and took our picture. They are going to go help cut up a Beluga whale with some of the locals.

We walked out on the gravel far enough to easily dip our fingers. The mosquitoes are terrible so we don’t stay long. We put the hood of our sweatshirts up to help keep them off. Almost all of the locals are doing the same.

We found the store that is the local version of a Walmart. They had food, furniture, appliances, automotive supplies and souvenirs. A dozen eggs costs $8.59 Canadian ($6.25 US). They didn’t have any T-shirts in the right size. We did buy a magnet for the fridge but it may end up being on the car.

We drove a little around town which doesn’t take long. The town isn’t very big. The houses are small but colorful. Just about every house has multiple snowmobiles, a four wheeler and a boat. The houses are built on stilts due to the permafrost we think. Other junk usually surrounds most of the houses as well.

We filled with gas where they gave us a 5% discount. As we left town we stopped at the sign near the Visitor Center to take more photos. The mosquitoes know where to find the photo op as well.

Several pickups are parked along the road. One of them says University of Alberta on the side. They must be doing some kind of study.

The road construction is still going on. One of the flaggers said a large caribou or caribou reindeer cross was just ahead. Our usual wildlife sightings held true. The animal was gone. Maybe Sasquatch scared it away?

Several places along the road have hazard cones out marking a hole in the road. These are not just pot holes but deep holes. Some are small in diameter but most are at least 12” in diameter. Then there are places along the side of the road where chunks are missing. Looks like rain damage.

We left Tuktoyaktuk about noon and arrived in Inuvik about four. We decided to stay in the campground again and walk to Alestine’s for supper. We got the prized spot #27. Mosquitoes don’t seem as bad but there is still time.

We were greeted warmly at the restaurant by customers and owner. We split an order of fish tacos so we would have room for dessert. The tacos were very good but dessert was wonderful. We had “a piece of tail”. In other parts of Canada it is called “a beaver tail”. That is fried bread with chocolate syrup and whipped cream. She asked if we would mind being interviewed. Not sure if it is radio, tv or newspaper. We will find out tomorrow.

Day 15 July 16, 2025 Inuvik Northwest Territories to Tuktoyaktuk Northwest Territories 99 miles

The mosquitoes are terrible again today. Thank goodness the bug spray seems to work. We have learned that once you get in the woodie or the teardrop and you get the mosquitoes killed more don’t usually find their way in.

We are moving slower today. The drive should be shorter but we have heard it is really rough. We have to pay on our way out this morning. Even though we were in a hook up spot they didn’t charge us the hook up fee. So we only paid $30 Canadian. They had potable water so we filled the container we have been using for drinks and so forth.

While Rob was paying the bill another Arctic fox came in the driveway. This one was a little bigger and darker in color. It may have been one of the parents of the two last night.

Finding the gas station was a little more tricky. They listed three but two of those were in fact the very same station and it was closed. The third one was under a different name. Updates definitely in order.

The roads seem okay. Lots of washboards. We came to a stretch where new gravel is being applied. We had quite a chat with the flagger. He said he had heard about us. He was also going to post pictures on Facebook. His cousins own the construction company doing the road work. They are hoping to build a refinery in Tuktoyaktuk. Well that would change things. He also told us that this is whale season. We have seen numerous snow machines just sitting on the tundra. Well the locals take these out to the nearby lakes to fish for trout. We had been wondering about that. There must have been at least 50 of them scattered along the way.

Most of the terrain today is tundra. Only a few small trees. Lots of brush and grass. Numerous small lakes and rivers. The only wildlife was mosquitoes, flies and crows.

We had to wait for another section of road construction. More gravel going down. Sure glad we aren’t hitting this in the rain.

We saw two of the folks we talked with in Eagle Plains. They were headed back south.

The Visitor Center is on the edge of town as you come in. We talked to that person for a bit and picked up the flier. She could book campsites but not other lodging. Those you must call. We got a room at a BnB right on the ocean. Businesses in the town have some unusual hours and there aren’t many of them. Tourism doesn’t seem as prosperous as we expected.

We found the BnB and a good place to park. Sure enough the only window does look out on the ocean. It is a sheltered portion so it is very calm.

We walked down to a small cafe that served mostly hamburgers and chicken sandwiches. It is the only restaurant in town. A group of Japanese were waiting for their order. They also got some of the whale meat. One said it tasted like very fatty fish. This little place sits on the edge of the water. Some people were wading and some were swimming. The Japanese left and a group of motorcyclists arrived. They were much more talkative.

Back at the BnB to catch up with the blog and Facebook. Almost every car that drives by slows down to take a picture. The motorcyclists swung by to take selfies.

The city services here deliver fresh water and pickup the black water. The tundra is too cold to dig any lines. By the way, the sun will not set again until July 26. So its 24 hours of sunshine.