Spoffords Travel

Day 11 May 23, 2023 Samarkand Uzbekistan to Tashkent Uzbekistan

Sorry this is so late. This was a very long day that combined with the next day. It has taken several days to get back on the correct time pattern.

We started with a visit to a tourism complex where they made silk paper. The silk was not from silk worms but the bark of mulberry trees. Some of the work is done by using water wheels to grind or pound but most is done by hand. All very time consuming. First the bark is stripped from small branches. Then soaked in water for hours. Two women then scraped the bark to get the part they wanted. Now back in water to prepare for boiling. The boiling takes more hours. The pulp produced from this goes to a person who uses a mesh to separate the pulp from the water. Once the water has drained, the pulp is put on a stack of alternating paper and pulp. The stack is then placed under a heavy rock to force out more water. When ready, individual sheets are placed on a board to finish drying. Lastly they are scraped smooth. Somewhere in the process they pound parts for hours. Their gift store had lots of items made from the paper to include clothing. Really interesting process. At the same location they use another water wheel to grind various seeds to make liquid that looks much like soy sauce. This is used in cooking. They also roast lamb to be served at banquets. The workers live in houses surrounding the complex. The intent is for more crafts to come and be sold.

Then off to a very large former Masada that is now a giant bazaar. This is a large complex with domes and minarets. The inside of one is very beautiful again. In the bazaar we watched a man who does calligraphy on leather that is stretched in a frame. Another craftsman does mosaic tiles and dinnerware. So glad they are keeping these traditions.

We took a long walk to another market where nuts, spices and other goods are sold. We wanted some of the sugar coated peanuts but ended up buying sugar coated almonds. They are so good. At this market were at least two women with babies begging. They do leave when you say no. Our guide says they are gypsies.

Lunch was the usual salad and soup. The entree however was a chicken leg and vegetables wrapped in aluminum foil and cooked. We should try this on the grill at home.

Then off to the train for a two hour ride to Tashkent. The ride was smooth and comfortable. Only thing it was closer to three hours. During the bus ride to the hotel we saw a hearse with coffin and mourners. The hearse is much bigger with glass on three sides.

We got to the hotel about 7:00 PM. A farewell dinner was at 8:00 PM and the airport bus leaves at 11:30 PM. Only time for a final pack, shower and very short nap.

Day 11 May 23, 2023 Samarkand Uzbekistan

Breakfast was on the roof top of the hotel. A nice breeze was blowing through and it actually felt cool. Pleasant change. The sky is partly cloudy with an expected high of 88 degrees Fahrenheit.

Bus departure was at 9 am. We are headed for the ancient observatory. Our guide told the story on the way but we only understood parts of it. He talks very fast and pronounces some words differently. This astronomer was before Islam came to Uzbekistan. They were incredibly advanced for the time. Too bad all that knowledge was lost. We passed a large Jewish cemetery on the way. A very large statue of the astronomer is just off the parking lot. Connie stayed below. Just too many steps. Lots of school children come and go. Two cleaning ladies are working very hard to make the place beautiful. One lady spent at least 30 minutes cleaning one side of the base of the statue. The other lady was dead heading the marigolds.

Then it was off to a small museum showcasing ancient frescos. Amazing that any part of these survived for so long. Pots, coins and other artifacts were also on display. One display contained coffins with complete skeletons. A man was in the parking lot selling t-shirts for about $7.50 each. We bought two. I wonder how much they will shrink.

Next stop is another mausoleum sitting way up on a hillside. Connie opted to stay below and watch people. Some observations: babies are carried in arms not in back packs. Only saw two strollers and those strollers remained at the entrance. Not all Uzbeks are slender. The women like bling on their clothing. Several retired military guys came in. Their uniforms were covered in metals. A man recites from the Koran at set intervals. A special forces person stands guard most of the time. The patch even says special forces. Two live chickens were carried in but they most likely became someone’s lunch.

From here we went to lunch. For once it was a lighter lunch. Naturally since we are on our own for dinner. The restaurant was across from the Russian Orthodox Church.

We returned to the hotel for a siesta before heading out in the late afternoon. We are headed to a special wine tasting of local wines in a predominantly Muslin country. We had at least nine different drinks. Some were very good and some not to our liking. They also served various cheeses, apples, nuts, and crackers. They were not pushy about selling their products.

Then we went to a complex featuring various crafts and building styles from all over the country. We could have just come here and saved some travel time. Our guide got fresh bread right out of the tandoori. That is really good. A crowd has gathered around people doing some kind of game and dancing. They are have a terrific time.

The lights are coming on so that called for a last stop at one of the squares to see the city lights. Back to the hotel to pack up because tomorrow is going to be a very long day. By the way our hotel is on both sides of the road. Rob saw the first and only beggar of the trip.

Day 10 May 22, 2023 Bukhara, Uzbekistan to Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Today is a travel day with a couple of stops. Lots of orchards and vineyards for awhile then the landscape changes to desert. The road is paved but has lots of ruts and bumps. It is so rough that you can’t sleep. We go in and out of several towns. A section of the highway is separate with concrete barriers. Once in a while there is a small opening for a crosswalk. At one of these crosswalks there was no opening so a lady just climbed over the barrier.

We came to a pottery village and stopped. This family has been doing pottery here for generations. They have a particular style and patterns. During the Soviet time this was illegal so the family took it underground in order to keep the knowledge. Today they are the only family doing pottery this way. The process is interesting but very time consuming. The clay includes cattails to help hold it together and give it more strength. They make their own colors and glaze. All of it is natural. We bought a refrigerator magnet for $3.

Off in the distance we saw a huge solar farm. They get most of their power from hydro and gas powered plants.

Back on the road for another hour and a half. Then we stopped for a snack break. They are selling local food which we tried and then we found the Magnum ice cream bars. They were about $0.87. That is the cheapest we have ever found them.

Two more hours of driving and we reached Samarkand. It’s about 3:00 pm when we got to the restaurant for lunch. Good thing we had a snack.

After lunch we went to the mausoleum of one of the famous Amirs. The mausoleum is beautiful. They are working on some of the areas around it. The building was built in 1380 and took 20 years to complete. At least three generations are buried here. The bodies are 3 meters below ground but the outer surroundings were brought to the surface. One of these is the largest single piece of jade ever mined. The decorations inside have been gilded with gold. It is truly incredible. The surrounding park has trees made from crossing a mulberry with a weeping willow. Strange looking trees are the result.

Traffic here is the worst yet. Hard to believe there are no accidents. The traffic lights flash green just before turning yellow and then red. Just before the light turns green the yellow light comes on. Vehicles are ready to more as soon as the light turns green. Everyone really needs to pay attention.

Seems to be more European influence here. Also more money because we have seen cars other than Chevrolet. They also have a tram system on some streets.

We had about an hour rest in the hotel before heading out for dinner. No one was hungry but we still managed to eat quite a bit. As usual the food was prepared differently than we are accustomed to but still very tasty.

Day 9 May 21, 2023 Bukhara Uzbekistan

Today is to be very hot about 95 degrees Fahrenheit or 32 degrees Celsius. We are going to the outskirts of Bukhara to see a couple of other sites. The first is about 12 kilometers from our hotel. We pass through many orchards with a variety of different fruits. These used to be cotton fields but cotton requires more water. In a desert water is always at a premium. The road is nice and smooth most of the way.

The bus dropped us very close to the entrance this time. There are lots of family groups but no school groups. It’s Sunday so no school today. A large cemetery is close to the entrance. Members of the emir’s family are buried here. Emir was a title they came up with to show status but you weren’t a king or khan. Blocks of graves are surrounded by tall rock walls. The graves have no markers. The names and locations are kept elsewhere. A small seating area is here where a man prays and/or recites the Koran. Believers sit through a session and then leave. Food and money donations are given here too. A little further we come to an area that is selling empty soda bottles. People purchase these and then fill them with holy water from the nearby spigots. This can then be taken to people who cannot get there for whatever reason. The grounds are lovely with trees and grass. A small pond is located here also. It has ducks, geese and swans.

Back on the bus for a short drive to the summer palace of the emir. The palace is not overly large but must have been very expensive to build. Parts were from the UK, Poland, and Russia. The builders had copied European decor in many places. Another building had samples of clothing worn by the women. Also shoes, hats and jewelry. Most would be good for winter but they must have been really hot in summer. Our guide knew of a special room that we got to see. It is not open to everyone. It contained a lot of the jewelry which had semiprecious stones. We passed down a walkway covered with grapevines. This separated the living quarters of the emir from the women. A small tea house is located here so we stopped for tea or coffee. Some of us had ice cream. This is not like home but is at least cold. A single building housed all of his women. He had four wives and about 40 conqubines. Another pond was on one side where the women could swim and cool off. The emir could watch from his throne above. He would throw apples in the pond and the women would try to catch them. The grounds are full of trees and shrubs. At least two peacocks keep watch.

Next stop was a small market with four minarets. This was built by one of the emirs in honor of his four daughters. Each minaret was different. One had sculptures of nesting storks on top. This had been a school at one time. You can see a small amount of remains of rooms. We briefly stopped at a door with two door knockers. One to be used by women and one for men. That way the lady of the house knew if she needed to cover her face.

Lunch was in a local house. They had a huge wok like pot into which they had placed meat, onions, spices and carrots. Then they added rice and water. This then cooked for 30 minutes or so and made a paella similar dish that was very good. Another small tour group was at a nearby table. Amazingly one of couple from our group knew one of the ladies in the other group. They had not seen one another for over 10 years. That called for a special toast so everyone at both tables got a shot of vodka. Dessert was apples, cherries and apricots. The apricots don’t have fuzz on the skin but they taste the same.

Back to the hotel for free time before going out for dinner at 7 pm. A live singer was at this restaurant. He had a beautiful voice and sang a wide variety of songs. The group went to look at light on the buildings and experience a tea tasting event. Connie returned to the room to be cooler.

A few things we have not mentioned. The tea water is extremely hot. It is always served in small bowls that are very hot to pick up. Most people drink tea. Some of the turbines that men wear have their personal burial cloth inside.

Day 8 May 20, 2023 Bukhara Uzbekistan

Today we tour the old city. The bus took us near the Friday Mosque. Since this one is actively used they don’t allow us to enter. One of two ponds is located in front. At least some greenery surrounds the area.

Across the street is the entrance to the fort. Much of it has been restored and has been designated a UNESCO site. The climb to the entrance is fairly steep but smooth. Lots of people are visiting today. Numerous school groups also. The king or khan had lived here. We saw his throne, stables and prayer space. Not sure where living quarters were. The school children love to say hello and talk to you if they have time. You can get a nice view of the city from here.

Outside the fort are lots of golf carts, bicycles, pedal carts and scooters for hire. Some are in use. They look like a great idea. No idea the cost.

Then we took a relatively long walk in the sun to a madrasah and mosque. The madrasah is equivalent to a university so the graduates do get a bachelor’s degree. Small number of students and limited subjects. We were not allowed in so that the students would not be disturbed. Across the courtyard was a mosque. This one was no longer in use so we could enter. It is being restored which is probably why we could visit. This is primarily an open courtyard. The walls are decorated like so many of the other buildings.

Back out and across the street to a rug factory. We watched some of the ladies working. They range in age from 18-40. They make wool, camel hair and silk rugs. Some of the rugs have different patterns on the two sides. This is done by workers on both sides working at the same rate on the same row. Lots of rugs are for sale. They range in price from a few hundred US dollars to hundreds of thousands US dollars. No one in our group made a purchase. Business must be good however because they were not pushy.

Next stop was a blacksmith shop where they made extremely sharp knives. They also had various stork scissors. We purchased one of the larger scissors for $20. Probably paid too much since they are available in several places.

We took a brief stop at a spice shop. They gave us some herbal tea that was quite good. The Indian ladies in our group were most interested in items but made no purchases. We didn’t either since we had bought some in Egypt.

Then off to lunch. This was a much better lunch than some. Dessert was chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream. Some of the group got a little crazy. Two of the guys had a shot of vodka. After lunch five of our group tried a hookah. One of the group successfully blew a ring. The rest just kept getting silly. Everyone laughed so hard.

Back to the hotel for a short rest before heading out again at 5 pm. At least this avoids the worst of the heat. Today’s high was in the low 90s with very little breeze.

This time we visited a painter of miniatures. He is one of the best in the country. This is also a school so lots to see and purchase. No sales today.

Then on to a puppeteer. Interesting how he made them. Lots of different ones were on display. He demonstrated how they were used by playing music the puppet could dance to.

We stopped at the Jewish Synagogue but it was closed. We went next door to a Jewish house. Some Jewish people still live here. We saw a school where they teach Hebrew. Somehow the various religious groups get along.

A statue of a man riding a donkey is in a nearby park. This is a famous statue. You can tell where it has been rubbed many times. Supposedly good luck if you rub the tail. We did give him a rub. He was something like a Robin Hood. Now it is illegal to sit on the donkey.

Then to a local dance and fashion show. A band of about 12 musicians played while the entertainment changed from dancers to fashion models. The costumes on both were terrific. Oh such vibrant colors.

Now we are on our own. We elected to try the local pizza. The guide took us to a place where we ordered two and should have only ordered one. We had a chicken pizza and a supreme pizza. Where oh where is Flying Pie. We brought half of each one back to the room. We had a really nice waiter who spoke a little English. A party for someone was going on in the area.

Rob used Pocket Earth to get us back to the hotel in the dark. We got there very successfully. Then Connie wrote the blog and Rob removed his stitches from a minor event from home.

Day 7 May 19, 2023 Khiva Uzbekistan to Bukhara Uzbekistan

Today is a travel day with no real sightseeing. The trip took about 8 hours including a couple of restroom stops and lunch. You need to know that restroom does not guarantee a restroom nor does it guarantee a western toilet. The cities have numerous traffic signals and traffic does obey them. No right turn on red however. They also let pedestrians have the right of way.

Today is sunny with a slight breeze. We left the hotel about 8:30. Once we got out of the city there is much farmland. Lots of green crops of assorted varieties. Small trees line the roadway in places. Farmers are out hoeing their crops. Fields have 20 or more workers in them. Doubt they are from Mexico however. The roads now are in terrible condition. Often times the asphalt is completely gone. The road is supposed to be two lanes wide but it has broken away enough to be smaller. The bus can only go about 25 miles per hour because of the potholes. Just the same that is faster than some other vehicles. Passing on these roads is something else. The bus will pass a car even if a car is coming from the other direction. Both cars simply move off the edge and let the bus have the middle. The bus doesn’t pass a semi with oncoming traffic that is close. All drivers seem to do this so its not uncommon to be passing and see the same thing coming from the opposite direction. Many times the oncoming traffic is only inches away on the sides. The best option is to stop watching.

Eventually the farmland ends and we are in the desert. The land looks sandy with a shrub growing similar to our sagebrush. The roots of these shrubs helps hold the soil when the sand storms come. In a few places branches from these plants have been grouped into bundles and buried leaving about 1.5 feet above ground. This also helps during sand storms. This is it for miles and miles. Virtually no homes or towns. We did see a couple of flocks of goats but no wildlife. We also saw a couple of donkeys. The road follows the Silk Road. A caravan at that time could have 500 to 800 camels plus horses and donkeys. They must have been something to see.

We stopped for a coffee break near a large river that is the border between Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. The river is very wide although currently the flow is somewhat less. Our driver has brought hot water for tea or coffee and some cookies. The cookies are not as sweet as home. The tea bags are pyramid shaped.

Further down the road we had to stop and wait for our turn to cross the one way railroad and car bridge. The train gets first chance and then the vehicle traffic alternates sides. The bridge is not wide enough for two vehicles. The river here is much wider. Could also be the difference in the view. Along the road we also got to see a fish farm where they raise suckers.

The road finally became a freeway. It had been built with German help. It was smooth and potentially fast. However the speed limit is 50 mph and there are cameras to record if a driver is speeding. If so then a bill is sent. We did see a convoy of about 15 new police cars with their lights flashing. We were told that they were on their way to a new home in another town.

We had box lunches at a restaurant. Seemed an odd arrangement but it must work. The hotel from last night had packed the lunches. Way more food than any of us wanted. The driver got the leftovers.

Two crazy people were riding bicycles cross country on a stretch of two way road. The bikes were loaded so they are obviously camping along the way.

We saw a large hydroponic farming operation growing tomatoes and bananas. It was built in cooperation with Turkey. Seemed a bit out of place in the desert.

They are building more of the freeway so we saw lots of construction. The new road will be concrete. We had a few detours along the way too.

We had to stop for an emergency restroom break for one of tour group which was all natural style behind the gas station. This is not a good area to come if you have bowel or bladder issues.Oh, make sure you bring some spare paper or napkins.Finally we reach our destination. We can see the old city in the distance. We drove through the modern part to the opposite side of the old city where our hotel is located. Dinner was supposed to be included but was not reserved timely so we are on our own. Both of us are quite tired so it will be early to bed tonight.

Day 6 May 18, 2023 Khiva Uzbekistan

We are to meet our guide in the lobby at 9 am. We all got there but he did not which is very unusual. He arrived about 20 minutes late because he had been ill. He was also quite wet because it is raining outside. Very unusual for this time of year. Several other groups are just hanging around. We all agree to wait about an hour to see if the weather is better. One other group returned saying too much rain.

We waited in the lobby because the room doesn’t have chairs. A light shower continued all that hour. We finally ventured out at 10:30. It was still sprinkling a little. We walked to the west gate or at least most of the way. Our guide flagged down a big golf cart for us to ride part of the way. That was nice since it was covered. We waited a few minutes just inside the entrance for our guide to get tickets. Small merchant stands are along the entrance.

We stopped at a big map of the fort. The area is a UNESCO site. This was built in the 1800s. Approximately 800 people live inside the fort today. The site has been very well maintained. It got its name because of the well here. The trade caravans could stop here to trade and water their animals. The royal family also lived here so some came to see them.

This area is well known for its wool and fur hats. Just across from the map was a stand selling these hats. Several of us tried them on but only one person bought one. They are really pretty and quite warm.

The road is made of flat square stone. That can’t be original because they are too smooth and uniform. Makes walking easier however. That is good with how many people are visiting. Lots of school children too. All different ages.

We visited a hotel which had been a school for pupils to learn about the Muslim religion. One of the rooms was open. These used to be the dormitory rooms for the pupils. They were very small and dark. No windows anywhere. Thank goodness for lights. The room did have a bathroom. The only place to sit was on the beds.

The roadways were very nice but every time we went in a building we had to go up several steps. Sometimes they were short and not many. Other times they were steep and many. Definitely no handicap access. Also not many rest rooms.

Lots of loud music was coming from the next building. Lots of people were coming and going too. Once we got inside we knew why. A group of girls dressed in various costumes were dancing. Some from the audience were joining them. Everyone was having a good time.

Across the courtyard was the royal palace. People could come here to settle disputes or be judged for crimes committed. Sometimes the second in command could settle things but other times it required an audience with the khan. People would exit that audience through one of three doors. If you left from the first door you were free to go. If you left from the second door you were whipped and fined. If you left from the third door you were executed. The ceramic tiles used to decorate that area were beautiful.

The dancers were all gathered for a photo shoot in the next room. Some of our group joined them. Lots of photos were being taken.

Next was a mausoleum where a famous wrestler is buried. Our guide told quite a story about this person. Some of the story seemed unbelievable. For instance he pulled a man and his horse to safety when the horse started to fall off a cliff. He also saved a bunch of people who were slaves to a king in India. Inside the mausoleum was beautiful so at least some of the story must have been true. Several women were praying in a side room. Whenever they left the side room or the main room they backed out.

We came to a stand selling the fresh bread. We got to eat some that was still warm. It is much better that way. This is the bread they flatten out and then stamp with a design and/or the shop logo before baking in a clay oven. The stand also sold a bread with tomato and spices. That was good also. A young American couple stopped too. He was 6’ 9” tall and played tennis not basketball. He was born in Portland Oregon and is studying economics and Russian.

Then we entered a room with 208 wooden pillars. Every pillar was carved differently. It has two sections for praying. One section for men and a separate one for women. One of the pillars had carvings with Indian gods and symbolism. Not all of the pillars have survived well. Some have been replaced and some have metal bands around them to hold the pillar together. The pillars are small on the bottom and sit on a stone. Somehow they are holding the roof up.

Next stop was a wood shop where they carve pillars, doors, book stands, pencil boxes and other boxes. The work is beautiful. The book stands have four, six or nine different configurations depending how they are cut. Each stand is cut out of one piece of wood. We bought a small one for $25.00. Later we found one for $15.00. We obviously had not properly shopped.

We came to a cemetery that had been used primarily during the Black Plaque. They figured out that the plaque could be spread by taking the bodies out of the fort. Therefore they started burials inside. So many deaths occurred that they had to build on top of one another. That still wasn’t enough so they built family tombs and just added bodies as they came along. The tombs were all out of brick. There were also similar ones on the outside of the wall.

Finally off to lunch. After the meal the wait staff brought local sparkling wine and a birthday cake for one of our group. We all sang Happy Birthday. The rest of our day is free time. Most of us opted to return to the hotel for a nap and then to possibly return for shopping. We returned to the hotel but opted to stay there. Other than Rob asked our guide where he got his hair cut. So a bit later they went out. When Rob returned he had been scalped for $5.00. Some things just get lost in translation. (Including Rob’s hair!)