Spoffords Travel

September 15, 2023 Day 1 Boise to Umatilla, Oregon 249.7 miles

We got a late start this morning. Rob still had some things to do on the car and then pack everything in. So we got on the road about 9:45. We are taking the Woodie which does have a newly rebuilt engine in place. First stop is Costco to fill up with gas.

We are taking the freeway this time. Lots of semis on the road. We are cruising at 60 MPH on the flats without pushing the engine. The hills are covered with yellow daisy like wildflowers. We crossed the Snake River into Oregon. More water flowing than some years. We took a break at a rest stop before Baker City. The drive so far has been cool but the temperature is beginning to warm up.

Baker City Oregon was the next fuel stop. Then just down the road to a beautiful city park for a picnic lunch. Lots of big shade trees. The car is doing great so far. It didn’t overheat going up the hills. Next big test will be going down Cabbage Patch hill into Pendleton. Things still going great. Stopped for cold drinks at McDonald’s in Pendleton. The Roundup is going on so lots of trailers for livestock and people.

We had to stay in Umatilla because places in Hermiston were booked full. Rob discovered that we have a low tire. The same tire that we filled this morning. He tightened the valve core and pumped it up. Hopefully we won’t have to fill it again in the morning.

Day 12 May 24, 2023 Tashkent Uzbekistan to Boise Idaho

The check in counter had a long line when we got there. It got even longer before we reached the counter. The process seems to take quite a long time. Signage is not the greatest but we did find immigration. They don’t seem to care what line you get in. Also not concerned about a visa. Through security and down to the gate. Others weren’t coming and then we learned the gate had changed. There were loudspeaker announcements but we could not understand them. Recovery was easy just down the hall. A bus ride out to the plane. We settled in for the five plus hour flight to Istanbul.

In Istanbul we walked forever to the transfer area. Then through security again where they took Connie’s kindergarten scissors. They have been there a long time and normally pass through security checks. Our gate is back where we just came from. The airport is huge. After some effort we got an electronic cart to the gate. We had 1.75 hours between flights and had very little time to spare. Another security check was required.

We flew business class to JFK which was sure nice for the 11 hour flight. The seats and food were much better. We had about six hours here before flying to Salt Lake City. Then on to Boise. We arrived about midnight.

General observations:

You have a choice of hot water or boiling hot water in most restaurants. Both water options are very hot.

The country is very clean.

The country is very safe.

Roughly 92% of the population is liberal Muslim. All religions are accepted and favorably embraced.

The literacy rate is 100%.

All men serve one month to one year in the military. Women do not.

Almost all cars are white Chevrolets made in country. Most vehicles are powered by a propane type of gas.

Muslim call to prayer only on Friday.

Day 11 May 23, 2023 Samarkand Uzbekistan to Tashkent Uzbekistan

Sorry this is so late. This was a very long day that combined with the next day. It has taken several days to get back on the correct time pattern.

We started with a visit to a tourism complex where they made silk paper. The silk was not from silk worms but the bark of mulberry trees. Some of the work is done by using water wheels to grind or pound but most is done by hand. All very time consuming. First the bark is stripped from small branches. Then soaked in water for hours. Two women then scraped the bark to get the part they wanted. Now back in water to prepare for boiling. The boiling takes more hours. The pulp produced from this goes to a person who uses a mesh to separate the pulp from the water. Once the water has drained, the pulp is put on a stack of alternating paper and pulp. The stack is then placed under a heavy rock to force out more water. When ready, individual sheets are placed on a board to finish drying. Lastly they are scraped smooth. Somewhere in the process they pound parts for hours. Their gift store had lots of items made from the paper to include clothing. Really interesting process. At the same location they use another water wheel to grind various seeds to make liquid that looks much like soy sauce. This is used in cooking. They also roast lamb to be served at banquets. The workers live in houses surrounding the complex. The intent is for more crafts to come and be sold.

Then off to a very large former Masada that is now a giant bazaar. This is a large complex with domes and minarets. The inside of one is very beautiful again. In the bazaar we watched a man who does calligraphy on leather that is stretched in a frame. Another craftsman does mosaic tiles and dinnerware. So glad they are keeping these traditions.

We took a long walk to another market where nuts, spices and other goods are sold. We wanted some of the sugar coated peanuts but ended up buying sugar coated almonds. They are so good. At this market were at least two women with babies begging. They do leave when you say no. Our guide says they are gypsies.

Lunch was the usual salad and soup. The entree however was a chicken leg and vegetables wrapped in aluminum foil and cooked. We should try this on the grill at home.

Then off to the train for a two hour ride to Tashkent. The ride was smooth and comfortable. Only thing it was closer to three hours. During the bus ride to the hotel we saw a hearse with coffin and mourners. The hearse is much bigger with glass on three sides.

We got to the hotel about 7:00 PM. A farewell dinner was at 8:00 PM and the airport bus leaves at 11:30 PM. Only time for a final pack, shower and very short nap.

Day 11 May 23, 2023 Samarkand Uzbekistan

Breakfast was on the roof top of the hotel. A nice breeze was blowing through and it actually felt cool. Pleasant change. The sky is partly cloudy with an expected high of 88 degrees Fahrenheit.

Bus departure was at 9 am. We are headed for the ancient observatory. Our guide told the story on the way but we only understood parts of it. He talks very fast and pronounces some words differently. This astronomer was before Islam came to Uzbekistan. They were incredibly advanced for the time. Too bad all that knowledge was lost. We passed a large Jewish cemetery on the way. A very large statue of the astronomer is just off the parking lot. Connie stayed below. Just too many steps. Lots of school children come and go. Two cleaning ladies are working very hard to make the place beautiful. One lady spent at least 30 minutes cleaning one side of the base of the statue. The other lady was dead heading the marigolds.

Then it was off to a small museum showcasing ancient frescos. Amazing that any part of these survived for so long. Pots, coins and other artifacts were also on display. One display contained coffins with complete skeletons. A man was in the parking lot selling t-shirts for about $7.50 each. We bought two. I wonder how much they will shrink.

Next stop is another mausoleum sitting way up on a hillside. Connie opted to stay below and watch people. Some observations: babies are carried in arms not in back packs. Only saw two strollers and those strollers remained at the entrance. Not all Uzbeks are slender. The women like bling on their clothing. Several retired military guys came in. Their uniforms were covered in metals. A man recites from the Koran at set intervals. A special forces person stands guard most of the time. The patch even says special forces. Two live chickens were carried in but they most likely became someone’s lunch.

From here we went to lunch. For once it was a lighter lunch. Naturally since we are on our own for dinner. The restaurant was across from the Russian Orthodox Church.

We returned to the hotel for a siesta before heading out in the late afternoon. We are headed to a special wine tasting of local wines in a predominantly Muslin country. We had at least nine different drinks. Some were very good and some not to our liking. They also served various cheeses, apples, nuts, and crackers. They were not pushy about selling their products.

Then we went to a complex featuring various crafts and building styles from all over the country. We could have just come here and saved some travel time. Our guide got fresh bread right out of the tandoori. That is really good. A crowd has gathered around people doing some kind of game and dancing. They are have a terrific time.

The lights are coming on so that called for a last stop at one of the squares to see the city lights. Back to the hotel to pack up because tomorrow is going to be a very long day. By the way our hotel is on both sides of the road. Rob saw the first and only beggar of the trip.

Day 10 May 22, 2023 Bukhara, Uzbekistan to Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Today is a travel day with a couple of stops. Lots of orchards and vineyards for awhile then the landscape changes to desert. The road is paved but has lots of ruts and bumps. It is so rough that you can’t sleep. We go in and out of several towns. A section of the highway is separate with concrete barriers. Once in a while there is a small opening for a crosswalk. At one of these crosswalks there was no opening so a lady just climbed over the barrier.

We came to a pottery village and stopped. This family has been doing pottery here for generations. They have a particular style and patterns. During the Soviet time this was illegal so the family took it underground in order to keep the knowledge. Today they are the only family doing pottery this way. The process is interesting but very time consuming. The clay includes cattails to help hold it together and give it more strength. They make their own colors and glaze. All of it is natural. We bought a refrigerator magnet for $3.

Off in the distance we saw a huge solar farm. They get most of their power from hydro and gas powered plants.

Back on the road for another hour and a half. Then we stopped for a snack break. They are selling local food which we tried and then we found the Magnum ice cream bars. They were about $0.87. That is the cheapest we have ever found them.

Two more hours of driving and we reached Samarkand. It’s about 3:00 pm when we got to the restaurant for lunch. Good thing we had a snack.

After lunch we went to the mausoleum of one of the famous Amirs. The mausoleum is beautiful. They are working on some of the areas around it. The building was built in 1380 and took 20 years to complete. At least three generations are buried here. The bodies are 3 meters below ground but the outer surroundings were brought to the surface. One of these is the largest single piece of jade ever mined. The decorations inside have been gilded with gold. It is truly incredible. The surrounding park has trees made from crossing a mulberry with a weeping willow. Strange looking trees are the result.

Traffic here is the worst yet. Hard to believe there are no accidents. The traffic lights flash green just before turning yellow and then red. Just before the light turns green the yellow light comes on. Vehicles are ready to more as soon as the light turns green. Everyone really needs to pay attention.

Seems to be more European influence here. Also more money because we have seen cars other than Chevrolet. They also have a tram system on some streets.

We had about an hour rest in the hotel before heading out for dinner. No one was hungry but we still managed to eat quite a bit. As usual the food was prepared differently than we are accustomed to but still very tasty.

Day 9 May 21, 2023 Bukhara Uzbekistan

Today is to be very hot about 95 degrees Fahrenheit or 32 degrees Celsius. We are going to the outskirts of Bukhara to see a couple of other sites. The first is about 12 kilometers from our hotel. We pass through many orchards with a variety of different fruits. These used to be cotton fields but cotton requires more water. In a desert water is always at a premium. The road is nice and smooth most of the way.

The bus dropped us very close to the entrance this time. There are lots of family groups but no school groups. It’s Sunday so no school today. A large cemetery is close to the entrance. Members of the emir’s family are buried here. Emir was a title they came up with to show status but you weren’t a king or khan. Blocks of graves are surrounded by tall rock walls. The graves have no markers. The names and locations are kept elsewhere. A small seating area is here where a man prays and/or recites the Koran. Believers sit through a session and then leave. Food and money donations are given here too. A little further we come to an area that is selling empty soda bottles. People purchase these and then fill them with holy water from the nearby spigots. This can then be taken to people who cannot get there for whatever reason. The grounds are lovely with trees and grass. A small pond is located here also. It has ducks, geese and swans.

Back on the bus for a short drive to the summer palace of the emir. The palace is not overly large but must have been very expensive to build. Parts were from the UK, Poland, and Russia. The builders had copied European decor in many places. Another building had samples of clothing worn by the women. Also shoes, hats and jewelry. Most would be good for winter but they must have been really hot in summer. Our guide knew of a special room that we got to see. It is not open to everyone. It contained a lot of the jewelry which had semiprecious stones. We passed down a walkway covered with grapevines. This separated the living quarters of the emir from the women. A small tea house is located here so we stopped for tea or coffee. Some of us had ice cream. This is not like home but is at least cold. A single building housed all of his women. He had four wives and about 40 conqubines. Another pond was on one side where the women could swim and cool off. The emir could watch from his throne above. He would throw apples in the pond and the women would try to catch them. The grounds are full of trees and shrubs. At least two peacocks keep watch.

Next stop was a small market with four minarets. This was built by one of the emirs in honor of his four daughters. Each minaret was different. One had sculptures of nesting storks on top. This had been a school at one time. You can see a small amount of remains of rooms. We briefly stopped at a door with two door knockers. One to be used by women and one for men. That way the lady of the house knew if she needed to cover her face.

Lunch was in a local house. They had a huge wok like pot into which they had placed meat, onions, spices and carrots. Then they added rice and water. This then cooked for 30 minutes or so and made a paella similar dish that was very good. Another small tour group was at a nearby table. Amazingly one of couple from our group knew one of the ladies in the other group. They had not seen one another for over 10 years. That called for a special toast so everyone at both tables got a shot of vodka. Dessert was apples, cherries and apricots. The apricots don’t have fuzz on the skin but they taste the same.

Back to the hotel for free time before going out for dinner at 7 pm. A live singer was at this restaurant. He had a beautiful voice and sang a wide variety of songs. The group went to look at light on the buildings and experience a tea tasting event. Connie returned to the room to be cooler.

A few things we have not mentioned. The tea water is extremely hot. It is always served in small bowls that are very hot to pick up. Most people drink tea. Some of the turbines that men wear have their personal burial cloth inside.

Day 8 May 20, 2023 Bukhara Uzbekistan

Today we tour the old city. The bus took us near the Friday Mosque. Since this one is actively used they don’t allow us to enter. One of two ponds is located in front. At least some greenery surrounds the area.

Across the street is the entrance to the fort. Much of it has been restored and has been designated a UNESCO site. The climb to the entrance is fairly steep but smooth. Lots of people are visiting today. Numerous school groups also. The king or khan had lived here. We saw his throne, stables and prayer space. Not sure where living quarters were. The school children love to say hello and talk to you if they have time. You can get a nice view of the city from here.

Outside the fort are lots of golf carts, bicycles, pedal carts and scooters for hire. Some are in use. They look like a great idea. No idea the cost.

Then we took a relatively long walk in the sun to a madrasah and mosque. The madrasah is equivalent to a university so the graduates do get a bachelor’s degree. Small number of students and limited subjects. We were not allowed in so that the students would not be disturbed. Across the courtyard was a mosque. This one was no longer in use so we could enter. It is being restored which is probably why we could visit. This is primarily an open courtyard. The walls are decorated like so many of the other buildings.

Back out and across the street to a rug factory. We watched some of the ladies working. They range in age from 18-40. They make wool, camel hair and silk rugs. Some of the rugs have different patterns on the two sides. This is done by workers on both sides working at the same rate on the same row. Lots of rugs are for sale. They range in price from a few hundred US dollars to hundreds of thousands US dollars. No one in our group made a purchase. Business must be good however because they were not pushy.

Next stop was a blacksmith shop where they made extremely sharp knives. They also had various stork scissors. We purchased one of the larger scissors for $20. Probably paid too much since they are available in several places.

We took a brief stop at a spice shop. They gave us some herbal tea that was quite good. The Indian ladies in our group were most interested in items but made no purchases. We didn’t either since we had bought some in Egypt.

Then off to lunch. This was a much better lunch than some. Dessert was chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream. Some of the group got a little crazy. Two of the guys had a shot of vodka. After lunch five of our group tried a hookah. One of the group successfully blew a ring. The rest just kept getting silly. Everyone laughed so hard.

Back to the hotel for a short rest before heading out again at 5 pm. At least this avoids the worst of the heat. Today’s high was in the low 90s with very little breeze.

This time we visited a painter of miniatures. He is one of the best in the country. This is also a school so lots to see and purchase. No sales today.

Then on to a puppeteer. Interesting how he made them. Lots of different ones were on display. He demonstrated how they were used by playing music the puppet could dance to.

We stopped at the Jewish Synagogue but it was closed. We went next door to a Jewish house. Some Jewish people still live here. We saw a school where they teach Hebrew. Somehow the various religious groups get along.

A statue of a man riding a donkey is in a nearby park. This is a famous statue. You can tell where it has been rubbed many times. Supposedly good luck if you rub the tail. We did give him a rub. He was something like a Robin Hood. Now it is illegal to sit on the donkey.

Then to a local dance and fashion show. A band of about 12 musicians played while the entertainment changed from dancers to fashion models. The costumes on both were terrific. Oh such vibrant colors.

Now we are on our own. We elected to try the local pizza. The guide took us to a place where we ordered two and should have only ordered one. We had a chicken pizza and a supreme pizza. Where oh where is Flying Pie. We brought half of each one back to the room. We had a really nice waiter who spoke a little English. A party for someone was going on in the area.

Rob used Pocket Earth to get us back to the hotel in the dark. We got there very successfully. Then Connie wrote the blog and Rob removed his stitches from a minor event from home.