Spoffords Travel

Day 7 May 19, 2023 Khiva Uzbekistan to Bukhara Uzbekistan

Today is a travel day with no real sightseeing. The trip took about 8 hours including a couple of restroom stops and lunch. You need to know that restroom does not guarantee a restroom nor does it guarantee a western toilet. The cities have numerous traffic signals and traffic does obey them. No right turn on red however. They also let pedestrians have the right of way.

Today is sunny with a slight breeze. We left the hotel about 8:30. Once we got out of the city there is much farmland. Lots of green crops of assorted varieties. Small trees line the roadway in places. Farmers are out hoeing their crops. Fields have 20 or more workers in them. Doubt they are from Mexico however. The roads now are in terrible condition. Often times the asphalt is completely gone. The road is supposed to be two lanes wide but it has broken away enough to be smaller. The bus can only go about 25 miles per hour because of the potholes. Just the same that is faster than some other vehicles. Passing on these roads is something else. The bus will pass a car even if a car is coming from the other direction. Both cars simply move off the edge and let the bus have the middle. The bus doesn’t pass a semi with oncoming traffic that is close. All drivers seem to do this so its not uncommon to be passing and see the same thing coming from the opposite direction. Many times the oncoming traffic is only inches away on the sides. The best option is to stop watching.

Eventually the farmland ends and we are in the desert. The land looks sandy with a shrub growing similar to our sagebrush. The roots of these shrubs helps hold the soil when the sand storms come. In a few places branches from these plants have been grouped into bundles and buried leaving about 1.5 feet above ground. This also helps during sand storms. This is it for miles and miles. Virtually no homes or towns. We did see a couple of flocks of goats but no wildlife. We also saw a couple of donkeys. The road follows the Silk Road. A caravan at that time could have 500 to 800 camels plus horses and donkeys. They must have been something to see.

We stopped for a coffee break near a large river that is the border between Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. The river is very wide although currently the flow is somewhat less. Our driver has brought hot water for tea or coffee and some cookies. The cookies are not as sweet as home. The tea bags are pyramid shaped.

Further down the road we had to stop and wait for our turn to cross the one way railroad and car bridge. The train gets first chance and then the vehicle traffic alternates sides. The bridge is not wide enough for two vehicles. The river here is much wider. Could also be the difference in the view. Along the road we also got to see a fish farm where they raise suckers.

The road finally became a freeway. It had been built with German help. It was smooth and potentially fast. However the speed limit is 50 mph and there are cameras to record if a driver is speeding. If so then a bill is sent. We did see a convoy of about 15 new police cars with their lights flashing. We were told that they were on their way to a new home in another town.

We had box lunches at a restaurant. Seemed an odd arrangement but it must work. The hotel from last night had packed the lunches. Way more food than any of us wanted. The driver got the leftovers.

Two crazy people were riding bicycles cross country on a stretch of two way road. The bikes were loaded so they are obviously camping along the way.

We saw a large hydroponic farming operation growing tomatoes and bananas. It was built in cooperation with Turkey. Seemed a bit out of place in the desert.

They are building more of the freeway so we saw lots of construction. The new road will be concrete. We had a few detours along the way too.

We had to stop for an emergency restroom break for one of tour group which was all natural style behind the gas station. This is not a good area to come if you have bowel or bladder issues.Oh, make sure you bring some spare paper or napkins.Finally we reach our destination. We can see the old city in the distance. We drove through the modern part to the opposite side of the old city where our hotel is located. Dinner was supposed to be included but was not reserved timely so we are on our own. Both of us are quite tired so it will be early to bed tonight.

Day 6 May 18, 2023 Khiva Uzbekistan

We are to meet our guide in the lobby at 9 am. We all got there but he did not which is very unusual. He arrived about 20 minutes late because he had been ill. He was also quite wet because it is raining outside. Very unusual for this time of year. Several other groups are just hanging around. We all agree to wait about an hour to see if the weather is better. One other group returned saying too much rain.

We waited in the lobby because the room doesn’t have chairs. A light shower continued all that hour. We finally ventured out at 10:30. It was still sprinkling a little. We walked to the west gate or at least most of the way. Our guide flagged down a big golf cart for us to ride part of the way. That was nice since it was covered. We waited a few minutes just inside the entrance for our guide to get tickets. Small merchant stands are along the entrance.

We stopped at a big map of the fort. The area is a UNESCO site. This was built in the 1800s. Approximately 800 people live inside the fort today. The site has been very well maintained. It got its name because of the well here. The trade caravans could stop here to trade and water their animals. The royal family also lived here so some came to see them.

This area is well known for its wool and fur hats. Just across from the map was a stand selling these hats. Several of us tried them on but only one person bought one. They are really pretty and quite warm.

The road is made of flat square stone. That can’t be original because they are too smooth and uniform. Makes walking easier however. That is good with how many people are visiting. Lots of school children too. All different ages.

We visited a hotel which had been a school for pupils to learn about the Muslim religion. One of the rooms was open. These used to be the dormitory rooms for the pupils. They were very small and dark. No windows anywhere. Thank goodness for lights. The room did have a bathroom. The only place to sit was on the beds.

The roadways were very nice but every time we went in a building we had to go up several steps. Sometimes they were short and not many. Other times they were steep and many. Definitely no handicap access. Also not many rest rooms.

Lots of loud music was coming from the next building. Lots of people were coming and going too. Once we got inside we knew why. A group of girls dressed in various costumes were dancing. Some from the audience were joining them. Everyone was having a good time.

Across the courtyard was the royal palace. People could come here to settle disputes or be judged for crimes committed. Sometimes the second in command could settle things but other times it required an audience with the khan. People would exit that audience through one of three doors. If you left from the first door you were free to go. If you left from the second door you were whipped and fined. If you left from the third door you were executed. The ceramic tiles used to decorate that area were beautiful.

The dancers were all gathered for a photo shoot in the next room. Some of our group joined them. Lots of photos were being taken.

Next was a mausoleum where a famous wrestler is buried. Our guide told quite a story about this person. Some of the story seemed unbelievable. For instance he pulled a man and his horse to safety when the horse started to fall off a cliff. He also saved a bunch of people who were slaves to a king in India. Inside the mausoleum was beautiful so at least some of the story must have been true. Several women were praying in a side room. Whenever they left the side room or the main room they backed out.

We came to a stand selling the fresh bread. We got to eat some that was still warm. It is much better that way. This is the bread they flatten out and then stamp with a design and/or the shop logo before baking in a clay oven. The stand also sold a bread with tomato and spices. That was good also. A young American couple stopped too. He was 6’ 9” tall and played tennis not basketball. He was born in Portland Oregon and is studying economics and Russian.

Then we entered a room with 208 wooden pillars. Every pillar was carved differently. It has two sections for praying. One section for men and a separate one for women. One of the pillars had carvings with Indian gods and symbolism. Not all of the pillars have survived well. Some have been replaced and some have metal bands around them to hold the pillar together. The pillars are small on the bottom and sit on a stone. Somehow they are holding the roof up.

Next stop was a wood shop where they carve pillars, doors, book stands, pencil boxes and other boxes. The work is beautiful. The book stands have four, six or nine different configurations depending how they are cut. Each stand is cut out of one piece of wood. We bought a small one for $25.00. Later we found one for $15.00. We obviously had not properly shopped.

We came to a cemetery that had been used primarily during the Black Plaque. They figured out that the plaque could be spread by taking the bodies out of the fort. Therefore they started burials inside. So many deaths occurred that they had to build on top of one another. That still wasn’t enough so they built family tombs and just added bodies as they came along. The tombs were all out of brick. There were also similar ones on the outside of the wall.

Finally off to lunch. After the meal the wait staff brought local sparkling wine and a birthday cake for one of our group. We all sang Happy Birthday. The rest of our day is free time. Most of us opted to return to the hotel for a nap and then to possibly return for shopping. We returned to the hotel but opted to stay there. Other than Rob asked our guide where he got his hair cut. So a bit later they went out. When Rob returned he had been scalped for $5.00. Some things just get lost in translation. (Including Rob’s hair!)

Day 5 May 17, 2023 Tashkent Uzbekistan to Khiva Uzbekistan

We are to meet in the lobby at 5 am for a bus ride to the airport. Other tour groups are going too so the airport is crowded. All bags are x-rayed as you enter. Check in is slow so now we know why we had to come so early. Then bags are X-rayed again before entering the waiting area. The hotel gave us box lunches which we ate while we waited. Everyone is bused out to the plane. They load from the front and rear of the air craft. The flight is about 1 hour and 15 minutes. When we departed the plane, the air was cool and windy. Very nice change.

The bus ride was about an hour through small towns and farm land. Lots of cotton is grown in this region. People are out tilling the fields by hand. Looks like tough work. The further we got the worse the roads became. There are more holes than asphalt. Vehicles drive from one side to the other to avoid as many holes as possible. These are two lane roads but all kinds of vehicles pass just about any time. The bus bounces all over. Then the terrain becomes more desert. Very little green and no farms. A few times we saw small carts pulled by donkeys going to town with products. Many if not most of the houses are made of mud bricks. The bricks are larger than the bricks at home. Most houses are small. A few had garages. None had trees, grass or flowers.

Our first stop was an old fort that looks more like a rock outcropping. It dates back to sometime in the late BC through early AD. Nothing has been visibly done to preserve it. A group of fifth grade students were visiting also. Could have talked with them longer.

Then on to another fort in better condition. It has been partially restored and the remainder left in original state.

Back to near the airport with a stop for lunch in a museum like place to honor the early settlers here. After lunch we toured the facility. They had a few yurts set up which they described. Interesting how they came apart. They had various other items of daily life and some photos. Then a few animals to include a five day old baby camel, it’s mother, a two month old camel, a baby goat and mother and a ram that liked to but his head on the feed trough.

About 40 minutes further we reached our hotel. It’s across the street from the walled city of Khiva. We got a couple of hours of free time before going for dinner. Dinner is in the walled city. We passed several small stands selling souvenirs of various kinds. Several hotels and restaurants are also there. We finally reached our restaurant which is obviously set up for tour groups. The salads were very similar to all the other meals. The main course included green noodles which are a specialty in this region. Unfortunately they didn’t have much flavor. The added bonus was a short entertainment by musicians and dancers from the region. They performed traditional music and dance.

The return trip to the hotel was very pleasant. Many of the buildings were lit on the outside and the temperature was cool. We were wishing we could do the tour then.

Day 4 May 16, 2023 Tashkent Uzbekistan

We got back to the hotel late and we must get up early for a flight tomorrow so this didn’t get written. The internet was down anyway so we couldn’t have posted. We met in the lobby at 9 am and headed out in a very nice bus. The roads are usually quite wide and well maintained. Traffic is reasonably heavy. They drive on the right side and usually stay in the lanes. Left hand turns are a free for all. Surprisingly they rarely honk. The majority of cars are small, white and are Chevrolets. Other colors cost more money. Some of the major streets are separated with a park like strip with a walking path, benches, grass and lots of trees. In fact lots of trees and flowers line the roads. We don’t see any trash nor any graffiti. Numerous workers are out cleaning the parks and roadsides. Our first destination is the old town. First stop is a large statue of a man, woman and child dedicated to the earthquake that happened on April 16, 1966. Then we are off to a Muslim complex of schools, burial sites, prayer location and a copy of the Koran done on leather. Numerous tour groups and school children are in attendance. The buildings are beautifully decorated and colorful. The weather is sunny with a slight breeze but it still feels hot. The main house of prayer is called the Friday House because that is when it is usually used. The building can hold 4,000 people with their prayer rugs. The floor is carpeted with a pattern to include lines so everyone will be pointed toward Mecca. The mosque next door is still under construction but is going to be beautiful.

Next stop was the central market. It is quite large. Part is inside a domed building, some is under a cover surrounding the building and the rest is under tarps. The entire place is extremely clean and no flies. The food looks terrible. Everything is beautifully displayed. We stopped in the bakery for a few minutes. The were baking bread on the insides of round furnaces. They make thousands a day. The bread is round about the size of a dinner plate and not very thick. Eggs from the poultry farms sell for $1.20 each. Throughout the day the roadway between the building and the outside stalls is sprayed with water to cool it. Handicap access doesn’t exist.

A short walk takes us to the stairs leading down to the subway system. This is also very clean. The trains are old and very crowded. People are really quick to give up their seats for some of us old ladies. We rode two stops and got out to look at the decor. Each station is beautifully decorated with a different theme. This one is historical. Back on the train and two more stops. This one is Russian astronauts. We exited the subway and met up with our bus.

From there we went to a high scale restaurant. Lunch consisted of several courses starting with two salads and bread. Next came lentil soup with pretzels. You could add orange and cream to the soup. Next came kabob. You could choose chicken, lamb, ground mutton or vegetables. Lastly was a scoop of vanilla and one of chocolate ice cream. Everyone was so full.

Next stop was a museum that had originally been a house. Lots of textiles, dishes and household vessels. Lots of interesting items. Our guide observed that we were all dragging so the plans changed to include some sleep time back at the hotel.

In the early evening we went back out to Independence Park which is a large park with multiple water fountains. People are wading in one of them. The president’s offices are behind the park. One of the fountains has a large arch with huge storks sitting on top. Tourist police are numerous. Our guide told us we should be able to walk out any time of night and feel safe.

We went by our bus to the restaurant. It is located in an amusement park. They have cars, a Ferris wheel and roller coaster. Most likely other things as well. The restaurant is small and we are about the only ones there. Once again the food is good just too much of it. By the way there are no McDonalds in the country.

Most of the group wanted to go back through the city to see the lights on buildings and above the street. The fountains were also lit with colored lights. By the time we got back the time was after 9 and we have an early departure tomorrow.

Day 3 May 15, 2023 Istanbul Turkey to Tashkent Uzbekistan

Well the flight to Istanbul was very uneventful thank goodness. The sunrise view from the plane was gorgeous. Unfortunately we were over the wing so our pictures weren’t all that good. The ladies behind us talked the majority of the trip and the college age girl in front of us kept trying to get comfortable by pushing on the seat. The couple across the aisle also talked most of the time and then the occasional screaming kid. Amazingly the flight landed and parked in time to get to the next flight. Not much time to spare. On the walk between gates we met another Gate One couple. This flight had a minor medical emergency. Not sure what happened but a man was on the floor on the other side of the plane. Several guys helped him up and walked him to the back of the plane. We took a very long walk to passport control. The staff told us any line even though the labels said otherwise. We made it through there in reasonable time. Then we had to wait a long time for our luggage. It must have been on the last wagon. Good news is that it made it. We didn’t see the other couple nor any Gate One signs. We headed out after asking a couple of folks. They let us by pass the luggage X-ray. Now it is outside where the temperature is hot. One more person to ask and then we finally saw the Gate One sign. Turns out the four of us are it for this flight. A twenty minute drive brought us to the hotel. A brand new one. Time for a quick shower and short rest before going to the tour orientation. Turns out this is a discovery tour so there are only nine of us. Four from New Jersey, two from Los Angeles and one from Miami. We all got a small thank you gift. I got a doll and Rob got a very colorful baseball cap. So colorful that he probably will not wear it. Dinner is at 7 in the hotel. We had salad, bread, fish, steamed veggies and potatoes. Not sure what the pastry was that we had for dessert. Also had a little local wine. Quite good.

Day 2 May 14, 2023 New York JFK Airport to Istanbul Turkey

We set a wake up alarm for 7 am but an emergency vehicle went screaming by at about 6 am. Then we could hear the birds and the early morning smokers. Our room was on the third floor but that is really only two stories up. The first floor is actually in the basement. We got ready and went down for breakfast. We didn’t expect much which was a good thing. The choices were hard boiled eggs, waffles, bagels (no cream cheese nor peanut butter), two bite muffins, white grape juice, lukewarm tea, and strong coffee. Price was right though. We chose the shuttle bus leaving at 9. They have a nice new van that has the first step over 2 feet off the ground. Connie needs a boost to get in. Rob knows where and how to boost. Most people were having trouble. Supposedly there is another step but no one knows how it works. They take everyone to Federal Circle where you can catch the Airtrain to the various terminals. The airport is undergoing major renovations so we had to switch to a shuttle bus. We didn’t have much trouble finding Turkish Airlines and were able to check in. Amazing thing was you couldn’t have any ropes or straps on your checked bags because a luggage belt may get caught and shut down the whole system. The international terminal is the oldest. The renovation plan is for 20 years. We got to our gate in plenty of time. By the way a small bag of M & M’s cost $16.00. The airline has queues for business class, seats 11-27 and seats 28-53. Seats is what the sign said not rows. We got in line a few minutes before boarding time. Then came the announcement that the flight was delayed. We ended up standing in line for over an hour. Hopefully they can make up the time or we will miss our next flight.

Day 1 May 13, 2023 Boise to New York JFK Airport

We had to get up at 3 am to be to the airport timely for a 5:30 am departure. We must overnight near the JFK airport in New York in order to catch the flight tomorrow. No way to get from Boise to JFK in time on the same day. We flew from Boise to Minneapolis and then on to JFK. Both flights were timely with very few bumps. Our hotel had a free shuttle so we caught that for an early check in and a much needed nap. The flights tomorrow are on Turkish Airlines. First to Istanbul and then to Tashkent (capital of Uzbekistan). We will be joining Gate One Tours again.