Spoffords Travel

St Barbe Newfoundland to West St Modesto Labrador 93.1 miles

Today is very cloudy and more wind. Rob had to buy the ferry ticket. Quite a line formed early this morning for the non reserved spots. The car required a pull of about two miles to get it going. Then it was a hurry to get to the ferry dock by the hour early arrival time. Rob left the car running until it was loaded. We were in the very back and exposed to the weather. One of the crew said the car might get wet. Sure hope not because we know it doesn’t like to start when wet. This is a smaller ferry because not as many vehicles got on. Once we got away from land the water got really choppy and white caps. The ferry rocked from side to side as we traveled until we got to the other side. Now it is head for our lodging. Well these roads are something else. We went up and down several hills that had grades of 10%-11% and would go for 1-2 kilometers. Rob hardly got out of second gear. The wind is the worst we have encountered the entire trip. The car rocks from side to side with the gusts. A couple of people said the wind keeps the bugs away. By the looks of one guy’s neck the black flies are wicked. After checking in the hotel clerks said we should go to Red Bay and that the roads were good. There is construction but only replacing the culverts. Well we took off. The construction went for 11 kilometers (6.8 miles). Everywhere they had put in a culvert was gravel. They have installed lots of culverts. At one place we had to go down where the culvert will be. On the way back we didn’t have to go down but instead went where they had covered part of it. They are also blasting in one area. Some of the crew is staying at this hotel. We got to Red Bay which is where Basques used to live and hunt whales. You could not go out to the island where they lived because the wind was too strong. The museum on whaling was small and cost $10.75. Most of the trees here are short and lean into the wind. Two guys came into the restaurant and talked about picking bakeapples. One of them had picked two gallons. The locals definitely think they are good. We also learned the locals like accordion music. Supposedly Newfoundland has its own style of music. Have not checked that out yet. Our room tonight has one of the more interesting layouts. First of all the ceilings are about 12 feet up. We have a table with two soft chairs, a desk with a dining room chair, toilet designed for a toddler and a walk in closet with the sink. One gal is the waitress and frost desk attendant. Who knows she may also wash dishes. Rob is doing some further checking on the car and Connie is doing laundry. Another thing we have noticed since arriving in Newfoundland is that a bottle of white vinegar is always on the table. Rob discovered a stripped manifold nut. One of the locals is going to pick him up early in the morning for a “special nut” search.

Cow Head Newfoundland to St Barbe Newfoundland 122 miles

We had a difficult night’s sleep. The person or persons in the room next to us had the TV turned on with the volume up until at least 11 pm. Then about 11:30 a guy knocked on the door asking if he could take a picture of the car. The TV started blaring again around 5:30. The day started out as usual. We ate breakfast in the hotel and bought a small jar of the bakeapple spread. Then came the loading and attempt to start the car. The difference being that the car backfired several times before starting. We figured a few 911 calls went out. The skies are mostly sunny and the wind is not too bad. We can see the mountains but they are in the distance. Surprisingly Cow Head does not have a gas station. We had to backtrack five miles to the nearest station. Rob learned there that the gravel road in Labrador that we originally planned to cross has just been paved. That still left over 200 kilometers of very rough gravel road in Quebec. Glad we didn’t go that way. The car didn’t want to start again. A couple of guys moved it out of the gas lane. Rob waited a few minutes because once again it was flooded. It did start and we were off. We followed the coast line most of the time. Several places have stacks of crab or lobster cages. Must be off season. We also saw stacks of what we think is firewood. No one is with them. No price tags. Just long rows of small stove size logs. Then we saw the hit of the day a cow moose. She was just standing in the right of way. We were so excited we forgot to stop to take her picture. We arrived in St Barbe about noon. The gas station is across the street from the hotel and the ferry terminal. We filled with gas and moved to the parking lot. Rob went into the ferry terminal but they don’t book tickets. Not sure what they do. Therefore he had to call to make reservations for tomorrow. He also booked the room on the other side. We checked in to our room and took a nap. Then Rob went out to put on the brake pedal return spring. The break pedal has not been popping back up like it should. That keeps the brake lights on and runs the battery down which is not a good thing. Lots of people stopped to ask about the car and take pictures. Many are very difficult to understand due to the local dialect. Just like other places it is more difficult with some people. Others it is just fun to listen too. It is not a slow drawl.

Rose Blanche Newfoundland to Cow Head Newfoundland 264 miles

The B&B filled up overnight. The water here is on a boil order. A cereal bowl full of the water is a light brown. Not real appealing. Dry cereal, milk, juice and oranges are available for breakfast. Two of the folks are headed out the door as we come down. They are going back on the ferry and want to be there early. The next couple are going on a boat tour of some of the nearby sites. The single lady is headed out to somewhere. We ate some breakfast and then loaded up. Once again the car is flooding and won’t start. Rob talked to the ladies in the gift shop. One of their husbands will come pull the car. He arrived in about 10 minutes. He pulled a very short distance but quite fast. Rob told him to go up the hill but slower. That didn’t work either. Now the road up the hill is gravel with numerous potholes so fast is not a good thing. Rob got out the rubber hammer and beat on the carburetor. Then he tried starting it again. After a couple of tries it started without a tow. We had to go the 25 miles back to where we got off the ferry. It’s much better today because there is some blue sky. The road is dry other than the water filled potholes which could be called small swimming pools. From time to time we can see the coastline. Everywhere there are small ponds full of water. Obviously it rains a lot here. We merged onto the Trans Canada Highway. That road is in much better condition. We went through lots of different landscape. Some areas had almost no trees and other areas were forested. Now there are much bigger mountains in the distance. The further north we went the cloudier it got. The clouds are covering the tops of the mountains. We did get a little rain but not much. We found a pull out and had lunch. While we were stopped Rob had his car door open. A squirrel came up and sat on his foot. He didn’t even know it. Then when another car drove up the squirrel made a loop through the front floorboard and out the door. It scared Connie. This is a major highway and there are no rest stops. We have only seen one official rest stop in the entire country. Several signs have warned of the presence of moose. One said there have been three accidents so far this year. In one area tall fences on either side of the road are designed to keep the moose away from vehicles. Eventually we also saw a sign warning of caribou. At Deer Lake we turned off onto a lesser highway but it was still good. This part of the drive is known as the Viking Trail and is considered a must do in Canada. In places we followed right along the coast line. The trees are very short and all point away from the water. The wind blows a lot here. The drive is beautiful. There are lots of hiking trails all over. Cars are parked at nearly all the trail heads. We turned off once more onto a local road in order to get to Cow Head. The road is more narrow and full of potholes. Our hotel has a pub and restaurant. Looks like the place to come. While Rob checked in most of the people in the pub came out to look and ask about the car. Then we went to the grocery store to get sandwich materials before returning to the hotel. We ate in the pub. Connie had Newfoundland mussels that were delicious. In the gift shop were jars of bakeapple spread. Turns out these only grow in arctic tundra conditions such as Newfoundland and Labrador. They are berries similar to a large raspberry but are amber in color when ripe. Some say they taste like apricots. The locals have a unique dialect. A combination of all the different ethnic groups that have settled here. Cell service doesn’t exist here for us at least. Rob did some routine maintenance on the car tonight. He is convinced that bringing only two carburetors on this trip was not enough.

North Sydney Nova Scotia to Rose Blanche Newfoundland 141 miles

It’s another mostly cloudy day with a little wind. We ate breakfast in the hotel restaurant. Rob went out to work a little on the car. Once again we had to be pulled. This time the carburetor was not cooperating. Flooding without any help. We then headed to the ferry because we were to be there no later then 10:15. Rob did his maintenance then and Connie tried to go to the visitor’s center. Well once in the ferry grounds you can’t leave. Luckily the ferry office had maps and tourist information for Newfoundland. Rob spent part of the ferry trip deciding where to go next and booking rooms. Good use of time. With some coaxing the car started so it could be driven on the ferry. Rob bought us reserved recline seats so the ride was very comfortable. We tried for a cabin but they were sold out. We split an order of fish and chips and a piece of chocolate cake with ice cream for lunch. The normal serving size is large in Canada. With a little coaxing again the car started so we could drive it off the boat. We filled with gas at $5.40 a gallon and headed the 25 miles to the B & B where we are staying. The road is wet so we know it rained recently. We were lucky and didn’t encounter any. The road is VERY rough in most places. It twists and turns and goes up and down. We had to stop once to add a little water to the radiator. We crossed one of those mesh deck bridges that are terrible to drive on. Another bridge was undergoing some maintenance so there was a big bump on both ends of the bridge. The landscape is much different here. Fewer trees, bigger hills, more visible rocks and more water. Everything is green and lush. We got to the town and then the street where the B & B was located. But the place was further down the road. Actually down the road, up the hill and down the hill. The road was mostly potholes and was only one lane wide. First gear for most of the way to ease through the potholes. You needed to be here to understand. There must be somewhere more convenient. Our room is upstairs and rather small but that is better than outside. The time here is a half hour ahead of Nova Scotia. Early to bed tonight.

New Glasgow Nova Scotia to North Sydney Nova Scotia 155 miles

Forgotten from yesterday: when we got off the freeway the road to take us to the hotel was closed and the detour took us back on the freeway. Luckily the next exit was only one kilometer away. Rob left the car running while he checked in fearing that it would not start again. The ferry crew told us that Prince Edward Island is a major producer of potatoes and that we should look up piggy eyed potatoes. I have not found anything about these but I did find that Prince Edward Island raises 25% of the potatoes in Canada. Today is mostly cloudy but no rain overnight thank goodness. We were required to take our breakfast back to the room so by the time we ate it the hot things were cold. Oh well. Rob went out to work on the car. Rob identified a corroded battery cable and replaced it. Now the concern of having a bad starter went away. He got several helpers but so far nothing is working. The car just won’t start. Eventually a guy towed us to a mechanic that he thought knew everything. Well the mechanic admitted he didn’t know anything about these cars. Rob had gotten a lead on a local guy who owned a Model A. When Rob talked to him he said he would come but he was also going to call his friend who really knew Model A engines. So in about 20 minutes they were there. The real problem was a “carbon track” on the distributor cap. This was Rob’s learning point for the day. Once that was replaced and the battery charged the engine fired right up. The time was about 2 pm and we had not eaten lunch so we stopped at a Wendy’s and then got on the road. The wind is quite strong and the road has lots of grooves caused by the trucks. So the car wiggled a lot. We have reservations tonight near the ferry terminal. The landscape is varied with small farms, small communities and forest. At times the ocean is visible. A huge freeway enhancement is underway. We criss crossed between sides. Sometimes new and sometimes old. Once again we go over gently rolling hills. Several houses had smiley stick figures by their driveways. Couldn’t get a picture because they were hard to spot until you were right beside them. When we got about 10 miles from our hotel, Connie checked out the location since we have had some trouble with addresses on Pocket Earth. This was no exception. We had to backtrack some and go another 5 miles. But when we got to the hotel it sits on a hill just above the ferry terminal. It is a beautiful facility with restaurant and guest laundry. We had clothes to do so when they went in the dryer we went to dinner. Connie had cod tongues. They have a little stronger fishy taste compared to cod filets. Rob was not as brave with his supper choice.

Borden-Carlton Prince Edward Island to New Glasgow Nova Scotia 135 miles

Today the sky is completely overcast and the wind is blowing. As usual the car would not start. A group of about 5 oriental ladies got a real charge out of pushing the car. That did not work however. Then another guest agreed to pull. It took a couple of passes but then it started.

We are planning to drive around the coast to the ferry location. The wind is blowing pretty hard which does affect the car. Of course its hard to tell how much of the wiggle is the road and how much is the wind. Lots of the road is patches on patches. The rain comes and goes but most of the time is at least a drizzle. This means the curtains are down and the windshield is covered with drops. Consequently seeing things is difficult. The landscape is small rolling hills with small farms and towns. The houses are well maintained and have green lawns. Some have incredible flowers too. The houses out of town have big yards. Glad I don’t have to mow those. We don’t see much livestock. Still don’t know where all that hay is going. The farms do have larger barns so perhaps the animals stay in doors. We saw two signs for buggies but not the Amish buggy so not just sure what that means. With further research we determined these were for Amish. There are stands for fresh vegetables, eggs and fire wood. One farm grew mushrooms. Another advertised “Clucks and Quakers”. Only occasionally did we see the ocean. Prince Edward Island is known for its oysters. Connie was all ready to have some until she discovered that they are raw on the half shell. Turned out it was raining too hard all day and we didn’t want to stop. For several miles there were cottages for rent. Obviously a favorite place to vacation. At least they weren’t as close together as the RVs. A surprising number of places are for sale. We guessed prices are high. Not sure what their winters are like but if they have this much wind to go with the cold being outdoors would be miserable. One short distance actually had mail boxes at each house. This has not been the case everywhere else. We did see one mail delivery person. The entire front of the group of boxes opens so mail is put in from the front. Also a new sign was for a trail crossing. This could be people, bicycles or snow machines. We encountered several very wet bicycle riders. They had to be miserable. Another new sign indicated church traffic. We didn’t see any of that so it must be like the moose. A side note: most churches have cemeteries adjacent to them. After driving about 2 hours we decided to cut the journey short and head for the ferry. We can’t see much due to the rain. The wind is terrible too. We stopped for gas in Montague. For the first time the car would not start after starting for the day. The car was pulled only a few feet and started. On to the ferry. We got there just as the earlier ferry was arriving. We could lie up for the wait list and possibly go earlier but we elected not to gamble. They had us go off to the side and come back after 1:30. So we parked and ate sandwiches in the car. We listened to the audio book until closer to time to line up. The car would not start again. Rob went for help. We ended up being towed to the line up area by a forklift. They want to put us at the front of the ferry so we can be pushed out. The ferry ride is about 75 minutes and their cafeteria is open. We ate there since we don’t know what it may be like on the other end. We bought brown gravy for the fries. Several other people in line bought gravy as well. Not really all that bad but definitely different. The chicken strips dipped in the gravy was good. When we got on the other side the crew pushed us off the ferry and we stopped on the side. No one coming off the ferry offered to help. Rob eventually asked some folks of Indian descent to pull us. We went further than normal but nothing. We sent them on their way. A man eventually stopped and he pulled us again. Faster and further. The car did eventually start and we drove to our hotel in New Glasgow Nova Scotia. Looked up some weather facts for Prince Edward Island. The hottest month is July at an average of 66 degrees. During the winter they get 114 inches of snow and the wind still blows. Rob is going to install a new battery cable tomorrow morning. After that, maybe air-freight a working starter from his brother in Renton, Washington.

Miramichi New Brunswick to Borden-Carleton Prince Edward Island 138 miles

The day is about 50% sunny. As usual the car would not start. It didn’t start with a pull either. Rob called his brother Ed for more ideas. Then Rob walked a couple of blocks to the Napa store to buy a new battery cable. He didn’t install that but did replace the carburetor with the one we started the trip with. It’s problem was loose screws that Rob did not notice before. Then with a short pull it started. Then it was off to change the oil. It turned out that all four places in town that change oil were fully booked for the next two weeks. Rob changed the oil by himself. His coveralls are going to need to be laundered before we head home. Connie sat in the shade in a small park. So by 11:30 we are finally on our way. We are on a bigger highway today so definitely more traffic. After about an hour we stopped at the Information Center in Richibucto New Brunswick for a break and to have lunch. It was quite pleasant there. Lots of shade and a nice lawn. The town is a significant sea port. During probation in the states they ran a lot of rum. Now they do more wood pulp and charter fishing. Then we were on again. We drove along the coast line but most of the time you couldn’t see it for the trees. Only small hills today. Off in the distance we finally saw Confederation Bridge that connects New Brunswick with Prince Edward Island. The bridge is 8 miles long. Today they were patching potholes on the bridge. Our hotel is not far from the end of the bridge. We drove past a vacant lot that had all these small white statues evenly spaced. What could that be. Oh my its seagulls all just standing there. We stopped for gas first. A local gentleman talked to Rob for quite a bit and then followed us to the hotel. He has a 1931 Chrysler. The lady at the reception here was not at all friendly. The accommodation was over priced compared to other places we have stayed. We went out for fish and chips which were really good. Too many chips to eat. We got to the hotel before dark so we didn’t miss any turns today.