Spoffords Travel

Day 19 July 20, 2025 Eagle Plains Yukon to Tombstone Campground Yukon 185 miles

We decided to eat breakfast in the restaurant and then take off. The coffee and hot water were warmer than last time. We split a breakfast and added a slice of ham that worked out much better. We didn’t waste food that way. While we were waiting for our food, we found the news article CBC had done from the interview we gave in Inuvik.

https://www.google.com/gasearch?q=‘cbc new dempster highway look what driven&source=sh/x/gs/m2/5#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:f0c6f053,vid:85DquhkZUVU,st:0

We fueled at their pumps before heading out. This is the long stretch so we will have to use the gas in the Jerry cans. Today is sunny which means it will be dusty. The dust from the big trucks can be like dense fog sometimes.

We were going along just fine until the transmission got stuck in third gear as we were going up a small hill. No matter what Rob did it would not come out of gear. We stopped on the side of the road and waited. Very soon a pickup going the opposite direction stopped. We asked if he could tow us to the top of the hill where there was a turnout. He turned around and towed us to the top in the turnout. The folks we met in Inuvik stopped on their way by. Rob said he managed to get the car back in first gear. They said if we didn’t get to the campground in two hours they would come for us.

They left and soon after we did as well. Luckily the next stretch was long and quit flat. We were going through a large valley that had a warning sign for horses. We did see three at a house but none out on the open range.

Unfortunately the highest pass on the Dempster Highway was the next thing. We made it up the first small hill but then the gear was stuck again. We pulled over again. This time a lady in a car stopped. She couldn’t pull us but was willing to stop at the campground and find our friends. By the way they are Tom and Arlene Currie. Another pickup with camper stopped. They couldn’t tow us because they had a rental but they would also check in the campground.

In about 30 minutes Tom showed up. He and Rob discussed the plan. Tom is nervous about the down hill portions. The down hill from the pass is long and steep. They will figure some of it out as they go. Soon we are going up the small hill. Down that hill was interesting but successful. The next downhill however the tow strap came loose. They used duct tape to secure it again. Rob had been able to get the car back in first gear so the new plan is to tow to the top of the big hill and then we would drive down on our own. We managed to get down the hill and into the parking lot of the campground. The campground is full so we we stayed in the parking lot. Turns out that by morning we shared the parking lot with at least 10 other RV,s.

We were parked right next to the Curries so we did visit for awhile before eating some dinner. The microwave is not working correctly so our toasted cheese sandwiches weren’t as toasted as they could have been. For some reason the batteries had not charged up. The solar panels are so dusty they are not contributing much. Not sure why the extra charge from the car engine isn’t working. The electronics may not get charged tonight.

The campground has some wifi which is very busy. Lots of people are sitting at a table near the hotspot. The lite rain shower did not seem to bother them. We didn’t try to use it much.

Day 18 July 19, 2025 Yukon border to Eagle Plains Yukon 60 miles

Since we went to bed early we got up earlier. The fog is still there but the wind is less. Several more vehicles have arrived during the night. The temperature is not freezing but still cold.

Rob tried to start the car. It didn’t want to cooperate. We are sure everything is wet in the engine compartment. Just drying it off didn’t seem enough so Rob got out the spray can of DryWire. That did the trick and the car started. Rob brought Connie the electric blanket. We set there together for a few minutes and then Rob turned off the engine and went back to bed.

One by one the other vehicles left. The fog lifted and we could see the hills on the other side of the road. Even a small streak of blue was visible. Rob got up. We ate granola bars for breakfast. Rob packed up just in time for the fog to settle in again. It was as dense this time but we soon drove out of it.

The roads on this side are dry so we are back to the dust. We went up and down several steep grades but made it. Then came a long stretch where new gravel was being applied. That means they spray water also. The gravel has not been fully spread yet which makes driving rather tricky.

By about 1 pm we reached Eagle Plains and decided to spend the night. We were both still tired and we needed to catch up on some things. We have not had a day off since we started this adventure. Maybe we will call this a half day off.

We ate lunch in the restaurant and then waited for our room to be ready. They don’t let people in until 3 pm. Once in the room we took a nap. Then it was time to catch up on postings and do laundry. Rob also applied more RainEx to the windshield.

Day 17 July 18, 2025 Inuvik Northwest Territories to Yukon border 171 miles

One of the foxes returned this morning. We saw it a couple of times. One of the other campers reported seeing it with a squirrel. Possibly another fox or another trip with a crow. The fox is very comfortable in the campground.

The grandfather we met earlier came down for a short visit this morning. They are headed home as well. They live out of Whitehorse so it won’t take them as long. They are also driving a modern car.

About 9:30 a camera man/reporter from CBC News came for an interview. He asked lots of questions and took lots of pictures. Then he was off and so were we. So it was a bit of a late start this morning.

The rain fell off and on. In case you don’t remember we have no operational windshield wiper. Rob didn’t get new RainEx on so the rain drops aren’t disappearing as rapidly. About the time they clear up the rain starts again. The rain has good and bad points. The good is the dust is gone. The bad is the mud is horrible. The trailer is completely covered by the time we stopped. The back window of the woodie is also covered. The big trucks spray a lot of the mud but the woodie and trailer do also. If we did this trip more often, we should put mudflats on the rear fenders.

We got to the first ferry in good time. The roads in the Northwest Territories are pretty good for gravel. We could actually go about 40 mph in some stretches. This is the bigger of the two ferries. It was loading cars on the opposite side of the river. When it left the dock it went to the other side of a small river that feeds into the larger one. Two vehicles got on there. Then the ferry came to our side. The two vehicles that got on at the first stop drove over to the side and drove back onto the ferry. All that to get across a small river. We got on board and off we went.

The line on the other side to board the ferry was longer than usual. Four semi trucks plus passenger vehicles. We got off and they loaded one semi truck and some of the passenger vehicles. We pulled over to have lunch. While waiting one of the other semi drivers came over to see the vehicle. On his truck is a new government building. On another semi is a new morgue. Both are going out to islands. We thought the morgue seemed more than necessary for a very small village. Well it might also be used for a moose refrigerator. Some of the politicians try to buy votes in Canada like others around the world. These buildings will be loaded on a barge and transported five days to the island. The cost of the building was $1.8 million delivered. The morgue was $1 million.

On the next ferry load came the grandfather. He gave us his name and number in case we needed any help along the way. He also told us of a short cut that would save about 500 miles. We will have to investigate that one.

Rob was excited. He finally saw some wildlife. A duck was swimming in a nearby pond. Later he spotted a fox running across the road.

We drove into Fort McPherson for fuel. We saw a little of town. It looks very much the same. Colorful houses with four wheelers and snowmobiles.

The temperature is cooler today and rather windy. Picture taking doesn’t work well through the rain drops.

Then we hit fog. It was so dense we could barely see the road. We are close to the Yukon and Northwest Territories border. We were pretty sure it was at the top of the hill just ahead. We could barely see the turnout there. A couple of other vehicles were already there. We pulled off and parked. We had no idea how far that fog might go on the other side of the hill and we knew the roads were worse.

Rob set up everything for the night and fixed a container of soup each. The wind is blowing the fog such that we can see it pass in front of the car. We can barely see the camper about a car length in front of us. We finished our audio book in the car and then went to bed early. By that time the driver side of the car was wet through to the inside from the blowing fog and possible condinsation.

A vehicle pulled in and stopped. Rob went to talk to the lady driver. She wanted to know how far the fog continued. She was supposed to meet someone in Fort McPherson. She decided to stay. After about 10 minutes she must have decided to go because she turned around and eventually found the entrance and left. The fog/cloud was so thick she had trouble finding one of two exits.

Connie slept with her clothes on. She zipped up the sleeping bag and added an extra blanket. The inside walls of the teardrop are damp and so is the sleeping bag and pillow. Surprisingly however everything was quiet. It did warm up in the trailer so we did not stay cold for long. The two 12V electric blankets made a difference.

Day 16 July 17, 2025 Tuktoyaktuk Northwest Territories to Inuvik Northwest Territories 98 miles

The BnB has a continental breakfast for sure. Dry cereal and milk or instant hot cereals. They also had tea and coffee. The other couple staying there had already left. They were sure quiet.

We took our time and Rob did some calling he needed to get done. We were loading the car when the son of the BnB owner stopped and asked if he could take a picture. He also gave us a small piece of drift wood with a piece of glass imbedded in it. He claimed to be a starving artist.

We headed for the point so we can dip our fingers in the Arctic ocean. We got to the end which has a nice big sign. The grandfather and grandson were there and took our picture. They are going to go help cut up a Beluga whale with some of the locals.

We walked out on the gravel far enough to easily dip our fingers. The mosquitoes are terrible so we don’t stay long. We put the hood of our sweatshirts up to help keep them off. Almost all of the locals are doing the same.

We found the store that is the local version of a Walmart. They had food, furniture, appliances, automotive supplies and souvenirs. A dozen eggs costs $8.59 Canadian ($6.25 US). They didn’t have any T-shirts in the right size. We did buy a magnet for the fridge but it may end up being on the car.

We drove a little around town which doesn’t take long. The town isn’t very big. The houses are small but colorful. Just about every house has multiple snowmobiles, a four wheeler and a boat. The houses are built on stilts due to the permafrost we think. Other junk usually surrounds most of the houses as well.

We filled with gas where they gave us a 5% discount. As we left town we stopped at the sign near the Visitor Center to take more photos. The mosquitoes know where to find the photo op as well.

Several pickups are parked along the road. One of them says University of Alberta on the side. They must be doing some kind of study.

The road construction is still going on. One of the flaggers said a large caribou or caribou reindeer cross was just ahead. Our usual wildlife sightings held true. The animal was gone. Maybe Sasquatch scared it away?

Several places along the road have hazard cones out marking a hole in the road. These are not just pot holes but deep holes. Some are small in diameter but most are at least 12” in diameter. Then there are places along the side of the road where chunks are missing. Looks like rain damage.

We left Tuktoyaktuk about noon and arrived in Inuvik about four. We decided to stay in the campground again and walk to Alestine’s for supper. We got the prized spot #27. Mosquitoes don’t seem as bad but there is still time.

We were greeted warmly at the restaurant by customers and owner. We split an order of fish tacos so we would have room for dessert. The tacos were very good but dessert was wonderful. We had “a piece of tail”. In other parts of Canada it is called “a beaver tail”. That is fried bread with chocolate syrup and whipped cream. She asked if we would mind being interviewed. Not sure if it is radio, tv or newspaper. We will find out tomorrow.

Day 15 July 16, 2025 Inuvik Northwest Territories to Tuktoyaktuk Northwest Territories 99 miles

The mosquitoes are terrible again today. Thank goodness the bug spray seems to work. We have learned that once you get in the woodie or the teardrop and you get the mosquitoes killed more don’t usually find their way in.

We are moving slower today. The drive should be shorter but we have heard it is really rough. We have to pay on our way out this morning. Even though we were in a hook up spot they didn’t charge us the hook up fee. So we only paid $30 Canadian. They had potable water so we filled the container we have been using for drinks and so forth.

While Rob was paying the bill another Arctic fox came in the driveway. This one was a little bigger and darker in color. It may have been one of the parents of the two last night.

Finding the gas station was a little more tricky. They listed three but two of those were in fact the very same station and it was closed. The third one was under a different name. Updates definitely in order.

The roads seem okay. Lots of washboards. We came to a stretch where new gravel is being applied. We had quite a chat with the flagger. He said he had heard about us. He was also going to post pictures on Facebook. His cousins own the construction company doing the road work. They are hoping to build a refinery in Tuktoyaktuk. Well that would change things. He also told us that this is whale season. We have seen numerous snow machines just sitting on the tundra. Well the locals take these out to the nearby lakes to fish for trout. We had been wondering about that. There must have been at least 50 of them scattered along the way.

Most of the terrain today is tundra. Only a few small trees. Lots of brush and grass. Numerous small lakes and rivers. The only wildlife was mosquitoes, flies and crows.

We had to wait for another section of road construction. More gravel going down. Sure glad we aren’t hitting this in the rain.

We saw two of the folks we talked with in Eagle Plains. They were headed back south.

The Visitor Center is on the edge of town as you come in. We talked to that person for a bit and picked up the flier. She could book campsites but not other lodging. Those you must call. We got a room at a BnB right on the ocean. Businesses in the town have some unusual hours and there aren’t many of them. Tourism doesn’t seem as prosperous as we expected.

We found the BnB and a good place to park. Sure enough the only window does look out on the ocean. It is a sheltered portion so it is very calm.

We walked down to a small cafe that served mostly hamburgers and chicken sandwiches. It is the only restaurant in town. A group of Japanese were waiting for their order. They also got some of the whale meat. One said it tasted like very fatty fish. This little place sits on the edge of the water. Some people were wading and some were swimming. The Japanese left and a group of motorcyclists arrived. They were much more talkative.

Back at the BnB to catch up with the blog and Facebook. Almost every car that drives by slows down to take a picture. The motorcyclists swung by to take selfies.

The city services here deliver fresh water and pickup the black water. The tundra is too cold to dig any lines. By the way, the sun will not set again until July 26. So its 24 hours of sunshine.

Day 14 July 15, 2025 Eagle Plains Yukon to Inuvik Northwest Territories 231 miles

We had a nice breakfast in the restaurant this morning. The prices are really not that bad based on quantity and location.

The parking lot is surprisingly dry for all the rain we had yesterday. When we got out on the road it was also dry. The rain did help some with the dust.

We came to a section of road that said to watch out for low flying air craft. In fact the road is an emergency landing strip. The road bed is actually a little wider here. Only small planes could land however. The wind sock is blowing straight out.

The terrain is small to medium rolling hills. They are mostly covered with short thin evergreen trees. Weather conditions do have an affect. Sometimes the trees are very close together and sometimes far apart. Eventually we came to the area where the wildfires had been last week. Large solid black areas on both sides of the road.

At the Arctic Circle turn out we spotted a canopy set up that appeared to be serving some kind of refreshments. Then we saw two bicyclists coming out of the view point. On down the road we saw more bicyclists. They must have been spread out over several miles. Some kind of bicycle tour. Most waved. The food was going to be cold for at least some of them.

Then in the middle of the road was a family of ptarmigans drinking from a puddle of water. There were two adult birds and five chicks. They were so cute.

We reached the Northwest Territories border. We parked the car under the sign and took a few pictures. We were pleasantly surprised that the road conditions improved. Sometimes we could even go 40 mph rather than our normal 20 mph.

The wind is really blowing so that coupled with the road causes the passenger side door to pop open. Thank goodness for seatbelts.

We took two ferry rides today. The first was a small ferry across a medium size river. That one took two vehicles across but could have held one or two more depending on size. The second ferry was larger and went across a wider river. The flies on that ferry were numerous and gigantic.

Because the roads were better we just kept going and got all the way to Inuvik. The time was about 7 pm. We drove for about 11 hours today. Maybe we were just waiting for the sun to go down to quit. Oh, that’s right, the sun never goes down this time of year. Very tired, we stopped at the first hotel we found. They were booked full. The receptionist called other places in town which were also full. She said the campground should have a space. It was good to have the campground as an option.

As it turns out the campground is just past Alestine’s Restaurant where we were told by several travelers was a great place to have fish and chips. By this time it was about 7:30 and they close at 8. We did get in before they closed. What an interesting place. The seating is limited. He cooks in an old school bus. She waits tables. They are only open from 5-8. She told us to get spot 27 in the campground if possible.

The entrance to the campground was less than a block away. Spot 27 was already taken but we found another one that was pretty good. The MacKenzie River is very close by. The mosquitoes had lots of friends and they were all hungry.

The traveler next to us pointed out that two small Arctic foxes were just across the way. We watched them for about 15 minutes. They were young, playful and very pretty.

Day 13 July 14, 2025 Somewhere on the Dempster Highway Yukon to Eagle Plains Yukon 69 miles

We found a note in the woodie this morning. It said we were crazy but great. The person stopped at 1:00 am and took a picture.

The new sound we heard yesterday coming up the hill is still with us. It seems to only happen when the car is in first or second gear and working hard.

We ran out of gas about 20 miles from Eagle Plains where there is a gas station. That is further than we expected to get. We were planning on running out of gas. The slower speed makes for better gas mileage. When we filled we got 20.5 miles to the gallon. Gas was $6.59 US a gallon.

The dust today is really bad. When the trucks go by we have to come to a stop because its like dense fog. Surprisingly the bushes along the side of the road are not covered in dust. Not much wind at the moment either so the dust just hangs there. Sometimes you can see it hanging in the air quite a distance from the road.

We arrived in Eagle Plains about noon. So that makes 3 hours to come 69 miles. Even the few good parts of the road don’t allow you to go very fast. Everyone has told us to go slowly. They were correct.

Rob checked and we can get a room for the night. Check in is at 3:00 so you can’t go to the room before that. We decided to eat lunch in the restaurant. We both ordered fish and chips. When the meal arrived there were three large pieces of cod and a big pile of fries.

A man and his grandson eventually came in and sat at the table next to us. We had a wonderful conversation with them. A big rain storm came through while we were eating. The water coming out of the rain gutter was more than our kitchen faucet on full force. It rained like that for about 10 minutes. It stopped for another 10 and then we saw the flash of lightning and an extremely loud clap of thunder. This routing continued for about 45 minutes. At one of the breaks the man and his grandson left to continue on their way. He said to at least look in the bar.

Well the bar is something else. The main light in the middle of the room is made with moose antlers. Local animal heads are hung around the room. An eagle is flying near the bar. A caribou and small bear are in one corner. Various antiques are also hung on the walls.

One of the ceiling tiles in the restaurant is bulging from all the rain water. We were sure it was going to break but it never did. We avoided walking under it when we left the room.

We got our key at 3:00 pm. Went to the room to take showers and a nap. After our nap Rob got our stuff from the car and we did laundry. Sure glad for that one. We actually used the hotel’s machines. The commercial washer is not easy to figure out. We had to have help. The only available person was the bar tender. He did get it to work but said that was not something he usually did. Turns out he is very busy. He works the bar, the hotel reception, waits tables and helps Americans who can’t run a washing machine. We tipped him appropriately.