Spoffords Travel

Day 38 August 8, 2024 Jackson Wyoming to Arco Idaho 156 miles

The night in the trailer went just fine. The street was quiet so nothing disturbed us. Rob packed up and fixed breakfast. While we were eating the cutest little deer showed up in the yard next to us. This looked like a mature deer just really small.

We made our usual fuel stop and plotted the route home. Decided to spend the night in Arco and have a shorter day. Then we needed to turn left out of the station. Oh my gosh the line of cars coming into town must have been at least 50 long. Must be construction backing things up. Well we finally got on the road headed out.

The park ranger told us that most of the work force in Jackson comes from Driggs on the other side of the pass. The number of vehicles we saw on our way over the Teton Pass far exceeded the workforce. There was rarely any break the entire distance up and down the pass. In fact we were well passed Driggs before it lessened.

The Teton Pass is a long climb up and a long steep decline. A huge mud slide closed the pass for three weeks while an alternate road was constructed. We slowly made our way up the hill. Sure glad it is morning so the outside temperature is cool. The car made it all the way up without over heating. The construction is on the downhill side. A new paved road exists over the slide. They are also working on the long term solution. Traffic barely slowed. Of course you can’t go real fast with all the curves and other traffic. We go slow going uphill and downhill.

We saw two roadkills. One was a porcupine and the other a skunk. The signs warned of moose but the only moose were two large white metal outlines. We also saw a metal big foot.

The odometer turned over 49000 miles. Actually watched it turn.

Another fairly large pass had to be crossed but it was not as big nor as long as the Teton Pass. At the end of it was the small community of Swan Falls. We stopped for fuel and ice cream cones. They had a wonderful ice cream spot. Lots of flavors.

Saw another very large nest on top of a pole. Two large birds could be seen. We think they were some kind of eagle. We saw two other large birds further down the road that were most likely the same kind. They were looking for lunch.

One more big pass before the terrain flattened out. Lots of big farmland again. About half the grain fields have been harvested. Then we came to a farm of llamas. There must have been at least 100.

We ate lunch in Idaho Falls. That place has grown too. Farmland continued for a few miles and then it became all sagebrush. Nothing of interest to see. The highlight was the entrance to INL.

We arrived in Arco about 3:00 pm. We checked in and then took a long nap before settling in for the night. Should be home tomorrow. That is car permitting.

Day 37 August 7, 2024 Livingston Montana to Jackson Wyoming 277 miles

The Super 8 we are staying in has one of the lightest continental breakfasts ever. They had one waffle maker and fruit loops. At one point there were four of us in line to make waffles. Then they had the air conditioner on 62 degrees so your waffle was cold in a hurry.

The skies are cloudy and they are down low. The weather report says no rain but it sure looks like it could. We are headed south and the weather is supposed to get better.

We fueled and then went across the street to the Albertsons. We bought cookies and ice tea. We should be set for dessert and lunch.

We are headed to Yellowstone for a drive through some of the park. Doubt we can make it all. Along the way we did see a heron standing in the river. Whistle pigs are still in abundance.

We stopped for fuel in Gardiner Montana guessing it is cheaper than in the park. The town is packed. Lots of big motorcycles. Many of them have come from the big motorcycle event in Sturgis. Many of them have the t-shirt.

We hoped to get a picture of the car at the Roosevelt Gate but there were too many people and cars. Several others took our picture as we went through. Throughout the day we were one of the most photographed sights.

A lone doe deer was standing along the road but when she heard our car she bounded into the woods. She was quickly out of sight. The only other animal we saw other than the ravens was a duck. We didn’t make it to the Lamar Valley where all the buffalo hang out. Later in the Grand Tetons we saw one other doe.

We got to the junction near the Great Geyser Basin. Oh my gosh the crowds were terrible. The parking lot is full according to the sign and a ranger was there making sure cars stayed out. The overflow was parked along the side of the roads on both sides in all directions for quite some distance. You would most likely have to walk a mile plus to see the sights. We decided to keep going. After all we have seen it before.

We do try our best to pull over whenever possible but one idiot passed us on a double line with traffic coming. That traffic pulled over as far as they could and so did we. Both of us slowed way down. He drove off in a hurry as if he was on a freeway. Surprising no one was hurt.

After going up and down several hills we got to the parking lot for Tower Falls. That lot actually had places to park. We ate lunch and talked to lots of people about the car. We chose not to walk down to the falls based on the time.

We came to a spot where a couple of park rangers were talking to a lady. As we got closer and looked down we could see a car way down the hill. It was still upright and didn’t appear to have rolled. She got very lucky.

Next was a very long construction delay. We waited almost 30 minutes. By this time the line was very long. We moved into the turnouts to let them pass. Must have been at least three quarters of a mile of vehicles. The length of the construction was not very long. They must do some work without cars to wait that long. When we got to the other side the line was just as long maybe even longer.

Mammoth Hot Springs was crowded when we first arrived and it is still crowded when we came back. Not as many big rigs as we expected. They must park those and take their pull vehicle into the park.

Every time we came to a major sight the traffic was backed up and the parking area was full. Most of the trail heads were the same. We have never been in Yellowstone at this time of the year. We usually avoid the summer. Now we know why.

Old Faithful is definitely off the list to visit. That place is crowded no matter the time of year. We managed to get past that without a big traffic jam but a short distance past that the traffic came to a halt. We kept just sitting and then moving a few inches. We most likely spent at least 30 minutes in that spot. Then it moved some but slowed again. After about 45 minutes the car died. We coasted to a stop where of course there was no turnout. Rob checked and decided we had a vapor lock. The car had gotten warmer than normal and we weren’t moving. So we cooled it down and continued. A short distance later it died again. This time a guy stopped and they made some other adjustments. Off we went again. We made it to Grant Village and filled with gas.

We drove along one of the lakes and saw what looked like a shark fin. Of course it wasn’t but it makes for a good story. It was very close to a picnic site.

Well as luck would have it the car died again. This time Rob decided to install a new fuel pump. Of course we were not in a turnout. He put up hazard triangles and little flashers. He needed to remove the trailer to get to some of the tools. A newly wed couple stopped then and that guy helped move the trailer. He offered to stay longer but Rob said that wasn’t necessary. So then Rob went to work. Before he could finish a park ranger happened along. He offered to tow us to the next turnout. Rob convinced him he was almost done. So he let us stay and he did as well. He told us of some possible places to stay for the night but turnouts are off limits as is the side of the road. A guy and his three kids driving a 1930’s era car stopped. His car had a big engine and other modifications. He didn’t stay long.

By this time it is starting to get dark. So the Tetons that are so beautiful were hard to see. Then the road sign told of all the wildlife that had been killed in the last 30 days. We could not find any place to stay. Those of you that are familiar with old cars know the headlights are not very good. It was not a fun 35 mile drive to Jackson Wyoming. The first two motels we came to had No Vacancy posted. We stopped at the gas station and tried to book a room or campground. Nothing was successful. Rob went in the convenience store to ask for help. He came back with two possibilities. As we tried getting those in the GPS two young guys came to admire the car. They said they knew a street we could park on in town. They escorted us there. By the time we got to bed it was 11:30 so no blog or Facebook.

Day 36 August 6, 2024 Choteau Montana to Livingston Montana 224 miles

The car started very well this morning. Rob did not touch the choke.

We went to fill with gas at the station next door. That station is having problems with their pumps because nothing comes out. At least one other person had tried because the two pumps had dispensed a very small amount. No one was at the station so we left and went about a block to the next station that was working.

A lady at that station admired the car and then gave us a poster for a big weekend they are having in September. Looks like tractor pulls are the big event. Don’t think we will be back for any of that.

We got a few miles down the road when Rob remembered he left the cookies in the motel refrigerator. Oh well not worth going back. Not many left anyway.

The terrain is rolling hills of farmland. Lots of grain and some kind of hay. A few small herds of beef cattle scattered here and there. The weather is partly cloudy but rather warm.

As usual we opted for the no freeway route. This took us through the outskirts of Great Falls Montana. Had not realized that was included. We crossed the Missouri River which is wider than expected for this far away.

Further down the road we took a break near Sluice Box State Park. They had information about the area displayed at the turn out. A train used to run through the valley below. You can actually see where the tracks used to be. The train brought supplies and people during the silver rush. It also carried the ore out. The geology was also interesting. The area at one time was the bottom of the ocean near the equator. The limestone is made up of sea shells. Shifts in the plates moved the area north and up out of the ocean.

The forested area that followed had lots of trees down by something other than saws. Sometimes the trees broke about half way up. Sometimes only large limbs. This went on for miles on both sides of the road. We later learned it was caused by a big snow storm that went through combined with high winds. The trees broke from the combination of heavy snow and wind. The small town we drove through had been without power for three weeks.

We saw two fresh road kill at different times. One was a doe and the other a coyote. Don’t know if that should count in our wildlife sightings. We did see 8 antelope in one of the fields. Rob honked and at least some looked up.

We stopped in White Sulphur Springs for gas. A couple drove up to admire the car. Then they invited us to lunch. The only spot open seemed to be Bar 57. Well they had good burgers. We visited with Wes and Barb for a couple of hours. He owns a towing business among others. Glad we did not meet him with his tow truck.

Back on the road to Livingston Montana. Parts of the road are really bumpy. This is more ranch land. In the distance are lots of clouds. When we got close to Livingston the wind got really strong. Lightning was all around. And then the rain came down. The windows in front were open so Connie in particular got rather wet. Rob stopped and rolled the curtains down. Now he was wet. Of course once the curtains were down it stopped raining. The town is full of puddles so it has rained quite hard. We were glad it wasn’t raining when we checked in.

Tonight is laundry night and the machines are very close. These are only $2.00 to wash and $2.00 to dry. The laundry in Alaska was $10.00 to wash and $10.00 to dry. Location, location, location…

Day 35 August 5, 2024 St Mary Montana to Choteau Montana 188 miles

This morning was extremely foggy. We could hardly see the neighboring RVs. The grass is also very wet because it rained some yesterday. The mountains are definitely out of sight.

We are hoping to drive the Going to the Sun Highway today. Rob needed to back the car just a few inches because it had rolled a little yesterday. The car did not want to start. He tried for at least five minutes before it finally started. Resolution: The Weber carburetor does not need to be choked very much. Then we were off to the gas station.

The little community of St Mary is full of tourist in all kinds of vehicles both large and small. Those businesses sit on the highway a short distance from the entrance to Glacier National Park. We filled with gas and headed to the park. The fog has lifted for the most part.

When we got to the gate the ticket taker told us we could not take the trailer on the road. Our total length is 25 feet. The maximum length is feet. Rob tried to change her mind but nothing doing. The best we could do was leave the trailer in the Visitors Center parking lot and drive the car to the west side of the park and then back. The suggestion was to turn around at the MacDonald Lodge because that would be easier. That was a good suggestion except the parking lot is only about 50% of the size it needs to be. We did get lucky and found one parking space. We unhitched the trailer and pushed it into place.

If you enter the park from the east you don’t need a reservation to go on the highway. If you enter from the west you must have a reservation or enter before 6 am or after 3 pm. We certainly felt there were more cars going east in the morning than west. That was a good thing for us. Also good for us was the fact that the speed limits are slow. Not so good is the fact that most turnouts are full. The scenery is incredible. You have to see it to appreciate it. There is also a shuttle bus system that does a hop on hop off from one end of the park to the other. If you don’t like that there are the reproduction red tour busses. The road is very narrow and windy. You can often reach out and touch the rocks on the side. It took us about 1 hour 45 minutes to get to MacDonald Lodge. We ate lunch there and luckily beat the crowd. When we left the wait time was 35 minutes. The return trip was a little faster.

The car did incredibly well. It never overheated. The brakes kept working. Makes quite a difference without the trailer.

When we got back to the trailer someone with a small car had parked behind it so it was blocked in. They had been good enough to leave room to get it out between cars with some help from four ladies. Unfortunately Rob forgot to remove the trailer tongue jack wheel on so when we his a dip in the road, it got bent. Another item for the repair list when we get home.

The creature sighting of the day was pair of eagles in a nest on top of one of the power poles. If you look carefully you can see them sometimes.

It was early enough in the day to get somewhere down the road so we headed for Browning. We filled there and then explored our options. The choice was Choteau Montana. This is plains country again so lots of big grain and hay fields. There are more cattle here however. There are also some oil wells which for the most part are pumping.

Day 34 August 4, 2024 Milk River Alberta to St Mary Montana 94 miles

We knew we had a shorter driving day so we had breakfast at the hotel restaurant. We didn’t leave until about 10:00 am.

The route we have chosen is definitely on the back roads. We drove for over an hour and saw only a couple of vehicles. Round bales dot the barrow pits. No one seems to pick them up because some of the plants have grown back up around the bales. Don’t know who does any of the work. Also don’t know who owns the bales. Many of the fields are full of bales also. Then one field had rectangular bales. Definitely a rarity. All of the bales are so big that they have to be moved with machinery.

More pasture land today with some cattle. Not nearly enough to eat all the hay. No one breed of cattle dominates which makes the fields more interesting.

Today is cloudy with a chance of rain. Then there is smoke too. As we go further west the mountains come into view. Unfortunately they are difficult to see because of the smoke. That is so unfortunate because they look pretty impressive. The terrain has become more rolling and we continue to roll along.

The road connecting the one we are traveling on with the road to the US is gravel. Only about 1.5 miles that were smooth for gravel. We saw a number of birds of prey perched on power poles. None of them appeared to be hungry.

Before long we are at US Customs. The lines are longer than our other crossings. The officers also seem to be doing a more thorough job. Then an officer comes back to the car saying he is an old car enthusiast. Some of the others told him to come look. After a few minutes he left. Then another officer came saying he heard the story and came to look. We were asked to drive through the x-ray scanner similar to airport scanners. Well that was a first. By the time we left most officers had come to take a look and/or take photos.

The drive from Customs to the KOA only took about 30 minutes. We were another big hit. The owner happened to be there. Rob explained we really didn’t need any hook ups but the website didn’t show those. Well they don’t have any but he would let us go in their group tent spot for much less. This is our first experience at KOA. It appears to be doing very well.

Rob adjusted the brakes before the rain got started so that was really good. The plan is to drive the going to the sun highway tomorrow and the brakes need to be at their best. The rain has been falling most of the afternoon and early evening. The forecast sounds promising for tomorrow. Time will tell which weather app made the best guess.

Day 33 August 3, 2024 Strathmore Alberta to Milk River Alberta 193 miles

No breakfast at the hotel so we went a short distance to the local A&W. The staff here were very friendly! They greeted us as we walked in the door. Many of the workers are from the Philippines. Connie decided to try the Whistle Dog while supplies last. Rob stuck with the more traditional sausage and egg muffin. The Whistle Dog is a hot dog slit the long way and grilled. Then it is placed in a toasted bun with bacon, cheese and relish. Quite tasty. This was a very busy place. Lots of people inside plus in the drive through.

We found out that there is a parade starting at 9:00 am this morning in downtown. This is the stampede parade. Someone suggested we join in. Unfortunately registration has closed.

After breakfast we headed for the gas station. Oh my were we a hit there. Two ladies came rushing out saying we had made their day. One of the ladies was so excited she gave Connie a rubber duck because that is what Jeep owners do. Our vehicle isn’t a jeep but she thought it was so cool that I should have a duck. They also gave us directions to a self serve car wash.

We found the car wash without too much trouble. We pulled into the bay designed for trucks and big RVs. Rob got off at least some of the dirt.

Today is in the low eighties with clouds. The wind increases throughout the day so by evening it is a force to be reckoned with.

We stopped in Lethbridge at a Costco to fill with gas and get a hot dog for lunch. When we got to the pump we remembered that Canadian Costco only takes Master Card and Costco Visa. We had a gift card we bought in Canada last fall. It still had some money on it so we put in what we could. Then we went in for ice and hot dogs. Well Canadian Costco still sell polish dogs. They also sell french fries with or without gravy and waffle ice cream cones. We left the store without the ice. Opps.

Next stop was Connie’s cousins who live out in the country from the little town of Warner. On the way there we saw a lone antelope in the middle of a field. We had a wonderful visit and enjoyed supper with them. We had a difficult time leaving. We saw the antelope again on the way out. Well, we saw the south end of a northbound antelope.

We stayed the night at the Sandstone Motel in Milk Run. We got the last room which was more like a suite.

Day 32 August 2, 2024 Drayton Valley Alberta to Strathmore Alberta 225 miles

We thought breakfast was included but really it was you can order breakfast. We had the Senior Special which was just fine. Thankfully no flat tires today. We got away about 9:15 after filling with gas.

We saw about 20 oil wells scattered here and there. Most were not pumping. If they were pumping they were going very slowly.

The terrain continues to be mostly flat with very large fields of grain or grass hay. There must be different kinds of grain because the colors are different. Most has not been harvested yet. Occasionally we see a herd of cows. Then we saw a herd of bison. The fence surrounding them was tall and looked very strong. The roads go for several miles in a straight line. The hills are usually small. We didn’t have to get in first gear for a hill today.

A lot of advertising is done on parked semi trailers. They are parked in a field and painted on both sides with whatever the ad is.

Oh my gosh we actually passed a vehicle. Never mind that it was a farm tractor going very slowly. We really have not seen much farm equipment on the road. Some of the farms are obviously very large based on the size of the farm yard. Some of them have at least 10 large silos and two or three large out buildings.

The wind is continuing strong today. There is an extreme heat advisory in affect in southern Alberta. Highs expected in the low to mid 80s. It was 81 when we stopped for the night.

Today’s traffic has more RVs than yesterday. There are some small lakes here and there with virtually no trees. We passed one RV park that was nearly full. They were parked on gravel with very little grass and trees. Doesn’t seem like fun to us. The other addition is horse trailers. A bigger rodeo must have ended or is about to start. The Calgary Stampede ended mid July.

We noticed a couple of corn fields. The corn is very short and has not tasseled out. Then a truck full of shredded corn stocks passed us going the other direction. Shreds of corn were flying everywhere including in our car.

Lunch was in the Trochu Lion’s Club gazebo. The gazebo was made of parts from a silo. Then a picnic table was added to the middle. With the wind we felt quite comfortable.

An extremely rare event. One of the fields actually had an irrigation line. We had not seen one in two days. A few miles later was another one.

We arrived at the Wheatland Hotel about 4:00. It has a lounge with slot machines and pool tables. They most likely make more from that than the hotel.

The car ran fine today. Since we have been driving without any major hills the gas mileage has improved to 19 MPG.